A DELICATE BALANCE
A Delicate Balance - Luxury Travel Magazine
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A Delicate Balance | |||||
| By: Jenny Caspersonn, Issue 27 – Winter 2006 | |||||
| (The Lalu – Taiwan) | |||||
| PERCHED ON THE EDGE OF SUN MOON LAKE, THE LALU, REFLECTS THE SERENE TAIWANESE WATERS AT ITS DOORSTEP. | |||||
| It’s all about the balance. Like some ancient builder’s forgotten spirit-level The Lalu sits delicately poised on the steep shores of Taiwan’s spectacular Sun Moon Lake. This all-suite hotel, an imposing edifice of stone, timber, iron and glass, strikes a perfect balance between the natural environment and the built. Did I mention glass? The equivalent of four football fields of it have been used to ensure that from almost every vantage point of the hotel the glory of Sun Moon Lake is in full view. Plumb in the geographic centre of Taiwan, Sun Moon Lake is the largest freshwater lake in the country and was so named because the northern end resembles the sun and the southern half is shaped like a sickle moon. In the middle of the lake is tiny Lalu Island, a place of ancestral worship for the Shao aboriginal tribe, who were the original inhabitants. In a country better known for bustling enterprise and a vibrant economy the tranquil waters of Sun Moon Lake are a far cry from the heady pace and industry of Taiwan’s capital, Taipei. Here, where mountains meet water, the magnificent Como-esque surroundings have long been a popular escape. The summer residence of Chiang Kai-Shek, Taiwanese President from the 1950s to the mid 1970s, once occupied the Lalu site. Gazing across the crystalline green of Sun Moon Lake it’s difficult now to imagine the scenes of destruction after Taiwan’s devastating 1999 earthquake 921 struck Nantou County. Over 2,000 people lost their lives and almost 10,000 people were injured in the quake. It seems a strange contradiction that out of such tragic chaos can emerge the beauty and serenity of a place like Lalu. When Lalu opened in 2002, it was the culmination of five years reconstruction by Australian architect Kerry Hill, a specialist in resort design. Singapore-based Hill has designed, among others, such jewels as the Datai in Langkawi. The look of Lalu is linear and the feel is of grace and space. Approaching the hotel, the dramatic solidity of the grey stone and timber entrance is offset by the infinity reflection pools that subtly blur the boundaries of water and light. As I descend in the elevator – which is trickily numbered backwards as it drops to the guests’ floors – I’m still pondering the balance question. I’m heading to my room and its number 1515. What is it with this place? On these levels an enormous spectacular light-well has been created at the rear of the building to allow light into what would otherwise be the dark, steep edge of the hillside. At its base is another decorative pool, this one full of busy carp gliding about like flaming underwater ellipses. From the first step onto the highly polished timber floor of the suite the spatial relationships feel right. The sprawling bedroom blends into the spacious bathroom area with a generously proportioned living room alongside. With the lake taking centre stage each suite embraces the stunning vista with deep full-length and full-width balconies. Directly below is the hotel pool with a runway line-up of umbrellas and recliners to gladden the heart of the most meticulous neat freak. With its dark stone finish and wet-edge design the pool acts as a miraculous natural mirror, its lineal sharpness frayed at one end in a tangle of pink bougainvillea. But a dip and a few quick laps are not for the athletically challenged; at 60 metres the pool is Taiwan’s largest. Those seeking further physical discipline can head for the tennis court or the impressive gym and fitness centre but those wanting to absorb some of the serenity of Sun Moon Lake must head for the Spa. A Zen-like den of tranquillity with the mandatory tantalising spa aromas, the Lalu Spa and Rejuvenation Centre offers traditional Asian and specialty Western massages, slimming sessions and restorative treatments. Delicious body scrubs which sound like they could have escaped from the restaurant menu, such as Ginger and Green Tea, and Rice Bran and Rice Wine scrubs, are there to tempt, while restorative workshops in yoga, tai chi, dance, massage, cooking and nutrition are also available. In addition the Spa boasts an aromatic sauna, herbal steam room and icy and hot whirlpools with a warming fireplace and, like the treatment rooms, all enjoy the magnificent lake and mountain panorama. Lalu’s restaurants and bars are a showcase of Asian cuisine. There’s a Japanese restaurant and despite its prosaic name Lake View Chinese Restaurant offers a range of local Taiwanese, Cantonese and Shanghai delicacies that are anything but dull. Adjoining the swimming pool the Chinese Tea House serves a dazzling range of specialty Chinese teas to calm and refresh. A restful library invites quiet reflection and with its designer accessories and quality trinkets even the hotel boutique gets it right. Sun. Moon. La-Lu. Even the name has balance. | |||||
| Details: | |||||
| The Lalu, 142 Jungshing Road, Yuchr Shiang Nantou, Nantou 555, Taiwan R.O.C., Phone: 886 (049) 285 6888, www.thelalu.com.tw. | |||||
| Boating: A guided boat trip around Sun Moon Lake with a stop at Lalu Island takes about 1.5 hrs. Fishing trips are also available. | |||||
| Hiking: From a comfortable stroll around the foreshores to the Mt. Shuisho Hiking Trail, which takes around seven to eight hours, numerous nature walks and hiking trails crisscross the lake area. Qualified trekkers are available to accompany guests. | |||||
| Sightseeing: Various temples have been built around the lake in close proximity to The Lalu. The Wen Wu and the Xaun Zhuang are popular attractions. | |||||
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