AT HOME IN ROME
At Home In Rome - Luxury Travel Magazine
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At Home In Rome | |||||
| By:Merry Kirkwood, Issue 16 – Spring 2003 | |||||
| (Italy, Rome, The Inn) | |||||
| THE INN AT THE SPANISH STEPS IS THE PERFECT BASE FOR EXPLORING THE ETERNAL CITY. Though the passing parade of Italian boots and bags is to-die-for, it’s the stylish coats and wraps promenading the bustling streets of Rome that are the scene-stealers on this late-October day. Cashmere, leather and wool, in a variety of earthy tones; waisted or hip-hugging, they all hang perfectly on the men and women who wear them; feather or fur-necked, oozing finesse and fine detail, they leave a lasting impression of this Roman holiday, in the same way as a favourite snapshot of the Colosseum or Trevi Fountain. Visiting Rome in autumn – when a drop in the temperature is the perfect excuse to indulge in some much-needed Italian retail therapy – is a wardrobe-defining moment with designer coat, shoes, and handbag being the order of the day. In the heart of Rome’s shopping nirvana is Via Condotti, the city’s best shopping street, located at the base of the Spanish Steps in the north-east of the city. Bvlgari, Gucci, Cartier; Via del Babuino, Via Vittoria, Via Del Corso – all commanding pole positions in the midst of a heady swirl of elegant windows, brightly coloured packages, stylish cafes infused with the aroma of freshly brewed coffee, and a swag of historic buildings (all marble and gargoyles and grand facades). Narrow cobbled streets, built for another age and lifestyle, house the latest creations in jewellery, fashion, accessories and, of course, those divine designer coats. Tucked away discreetly in a slither of a building, right beside the legendary Caffe Greco, is The Inn at the Spanish Steps, a newly refurbished hotel comprising only 24 guest rooms, including eight grand suites. A beautifully restored 18th century villa, this exclusive residenzia makes the most of its narrow design with guest rooms located on four floors connected by a small lift. The rooms are as stylish and dramatic as the neighbourhood, decorated in antique furnishings, with intricately patterned parquet flooring, and high fresco or solid timber-beamed ceilings. Modern bathrooms, though compact, have fine fittings and some rooms have jacuzzis. Swathed in rich furnishings and fabrics, many of the rooms have tall glass-panelled French doors leading onto tiny shuttered balconies. Throw open the shutters each morning and the Bvlgari boutique hits you square in the face (and not long after that, potentially, the wallet). But it is the spectacular view from the roof-top garden terrace, enjoyed over a leisurely breakfast, that is a visual reminder of the true heart and soul of Rome – a sea of red roofs and chimney pots with the dome of St Peter’s Basilica to the west, and a glimpse of the ruins of the Roman Forum and Colosseum to the south. Just out of view from the terrace are the gorgeous gardens of Villa Borghese, housing the rich collection of paintings and sculptures in its acclaimed Borghese Gallery. Complete with charming olive and lemon trees, this paved terrace is the perfect retreat at the start and finish of each day. A buffet breakfast, groaning with crusty fresh breads and pastries, cold meats and cheeses, fresh fruits and cereals, is served each morning, and olives and canapes are provided to complement evening cocktails. In between these stolen moments of solitude on the terrace, the pavements of the city beckon. Just a hop, skip and jump from the Inn are the delights of the Spanish Steps – hot-pink bougainvillea cascading from large terracotta pots through summer – which is packed with visitors year-round. This area is virtually a no-car zone, a joy for walking. So tightly packed are these streets and laneways, that the best way to move about is on foot. When in Rome, as the saying goes, and the Romans wander everywhere on well-shod foot, or on the back of a nippy Vespa. For those wanting to explore further afield, a limousine service can be arranged by hotel staff. A house-party atmosphere pervades at the Inn and is definitely part of the attraction. Friendly staff are on hand around the clock and take great pleasure in giving advice on local restaurants and spa services. What starts as a simple enquiry can spin out into colourful banter, full of enthusiastic gesticulation and personal tales. For those on holiday, this timelessness is part of the attraction and there is nothing better than to simply get out on the streets and criss-cross the city. Map tucked firmly in your back pocket, it is possible to head vaguely in any direction and stumble across such delights as the Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona, and the Pantheon. Dressed head-to-toe in the latest Italian finery, it is nigh impossible not to be instantly (and lastingly) wrapped in Rome. | |||||
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