BALI'S NEW HIGH
Bali's New High - Luxury Travel Magazine
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Bali’s New High | |||||
| By: Ben Groundwater, issue 48 – spring | |||||
| Bali | |||||
| BALI WAS ONCE A FAVOURITE FOR HIPPIES AND BACKPACKERS, BUT HAS NOW BECOME A LUXURY TRAVELLER’S MECCA WITH WELL-KNOWN NAMES LIKE FOUR SEASONS AND THE LATEST ARRIVAL, W HOTEL, SEMINYAK JOINING A PLETHORA OF BOUTIQUE AND BESPOKE RESORTS AND VILLAS THROUGHOUT THE ISLAND. HERE’S A SAMPLE OF SOME OF THE BEST. The town of Seminyak is at the heart of Bali’s upmarket boom, its quiet beachside location and relative proximity to Denpasar airport helping to transform its once empty shores into rows of unobtrusive luxury villas and larger chain hotels, as well as high-end nightclubs and restaurants. The calm serenity of the old Bali still abounds, but with an added touch of excitement – a balance amply demonstrated by one of the town’s newest and hippest establishments, the W Hotel. Angga greets me at reception, and hands me his card. “You see, I am the ‘Whatever/Whenever Manager’,” he says, pointing at his title. “That means I can get for you whatever, whenever.” He pauses, then smiles. “As long as it’s legal.”That’s a caveat I’ll come to know well at the W Hotel, Seminyak. In fact, I’ll hear it from all of the “Whatever/Whenever” managers: “As long as it’s legal.” It serves as a reminder that you can’t get away with everything around here, despite the fact that you’re far away from home. It also, however, makes you wonder what people have asked for in the past to warrant such a caution. Because at the Bali W – at any W, in fact – you could imagine all sorts of things going on. This is a hotel chain with a style, one that’s pointed squarely towards the hedonistic. There are no concessions made to mainstream appeal – it stands firm as a destination for the young and hip, or and least the young and hip at heart. Its new Seminyak, Bali resort is visually stunning, a creative gem, and it’s chasing patrons who display those same characteristics. The W team is proud of the fact they’re transporting the “high-energy, New York feel” of their original NYC hotel around the world, although in Bali it can seem a little incongruous. Seminyak is a largely tranquil part of the island, far removed from the backpacker parties of Kuta, where the only “whatever, whenever” request would be “one Bintang, now”. This is the luxury side of the island, with a plethora of private villas and stunning boutique resorts like Anantara and the Legian. The main street might be dusty and filled with honking traffic, but it’s also lined with stores like Paul Smith, and the high fences along it conceal peaceful hideaways. The new W Seminyak is aiming to set itself apart from its competition by sitting somewhere in the middle of resort and villa – offering both on the property – but with the twist of Ibiza-style beach parties and modern design. There are few of the obvious Balinese touches you might expect to find at a resort like this. An old Buddhist temple has been left standing by the beach, but that’s one of the few nods to the property’s location. The design is otherwise in the typically brash W style, with a tiny reception desk dwarfed by a softly lit, music-filled lounge bar, and sweeping feature walls folding back upon themselves to hide everyday amenities like lifts and doors. There are nuances of Bali here that would evade the casual observer: drapes in the colours of Balinese wedding sarongs; statuettes of ducks that were once carved on temple stones. It’s these little things that set the W apart: like the mat on the floor of the lift that greets you with “good morning”, “good afternoon” or “good evening”, depending upon the time of day; the little words like “excitement” and “wow” set into the floor tiles at the entry to the day spa; the fact that every staff member, from general manager to cleaner, will always stop what they’re doing and say hello when you walk past. They’re nice touches. The resort’s rooms are inspired by the peace and palette of a lily pond, with soft green tones and sprawling spaces – although find me a lily pond ith a Bose stereo, flatscreen TV and marble bathroom and I’ll be pretty impressed. The outline of three flying pigs is printed across every room’s glass sliding door, and the message is clear: anything can happen here. (As long as it’s legal.) During the day, the resort has just a soft murmur of hedonism about it, like a whisper of what’s going to happen tonight. Most mornings the sprawling pool area overlooking the beach is quiet, while guests sleep off the night before, but by lunchtime they all trickle out into the sunshine, taking up posts on the sun lounges by the pool or the day beds scattered across the grass. As the sun creeps below the horizon far out to sea, the music begins to pick up tempo, the juice orders suddenly change to cocktails, and it’s time to get back in the swing of things. It almost seems strange that you could spend an entire holiday in the confines of your hotel, but at the W it’s certainly possible. Days just seem to slip by in a haze of food, sleep, sun and booze. There are, however, options to get away from it all, including tours up to the central town of Ubud, or a day trip on the resort’s catamaran to nearby Crystal Bay. There you can snorkel, swim, or – of course – drink. There’s a mixologist on board knocking up mojitos with the joy of someone whose job it is to mix cocktails on a yacht. Understandable, really. Back at the resort, it’s time for something to eat. There are two main restaurants on site: Fire, which hosts breakfast and does a la carte meals throughout the day, and the more upmarket Starfish Bloo, with its outdoor seating and Pan-Asian meals accompanied by a symphony of crashing waves from the beach just a few metres away. The resort also has two bars: the W Lounge, an artfully lit space at the front of the hotel, and WooBar, a drawcard for Seminyak’s see- and-be-seen crowd who seem to materialise from the night sky when the DJs start spinning about 11pm. Nighttime is, of course, the W’s time to shine. Guests have little choice but to join the fun – the deep throb of the DJ-spun tunes rumbles through the whole main resort, with lights from the stage shooting into the beach-view rooms. Even the hotel’s “Away Spa” is open 24 hours a day, giving guests the late-night choice between a cocktail or a facial treatment. WooBar has regular international and local DJs spinning records by the beach though, so the spa is rarely busy by nightfall. The only way to really escape the party is to rent one of the W’s villas, which have a secluded position behind the five storeys of the main resort. Immaculately designed and furnished with a flourish, these are the kind of places you could lock yourself in and stay forever. Like much of the property they’re designed with entertainment in mind, with large outdoor decks that sweep into open lounge areas. The villas seem to have showerheads hanging from every available wall space – a nod, perhaps, to the creeping humidity in Bali much of the year. Each house has its own private pool, too, so there’s no need to ever set foot in the real world again. After all, if there’s anything you really need, the concierge and his staff are still at your service, for whatever, whenever. As long as it’s legal. | |||||
| Rates | |||||
| Rooms from US$375 (about A$354) per night (including breakfast), one-bedroom villas from $875 (about A$825) per night | |||||
| starwoodhotels.com/whotels/baliseminyak | |||||
| The Legian | |||||
| Also in Seminyak, and with an emphasis that is more about peace than party, this stylish, beachfront all-suite hotel with generous, charmingly decorated accommodations is an ideal landing place for at least the first few nights of a Bali holiday.The luxury begins at the airport where, for US$45 (about A$42) per person (including visa cost), guests are met by a Legian representative and whisked through Bali’s famously tedious visa-on-arrival process (a godsend for Australians on evening flights). You and your bags are loaded into a waiting car for the 30-minute drive to the hotel. In your suite a Bose entertainment system, Blu-ray disc player and Espresso machine await. Oh, and the Wi-Fi is free.From some of the ground floor suites, it’s just a short walk across gorgeously landscaped gardens, past the two-tiered lap pool, to Seminyak beach. The shops, restaurants and nightlife of downtown Seminyak are also just a short walk from the hotel but if you decide to while away your days resort-style there’s a spa overlooking the beach with a steam room (spa services also available in-room) and a manicure and pedicure lounge, a restaurant serving excellent international and Asian cuisine, yoga classes, a great fitness centre, library and the beachfront and pool area are fully serviced by resort staff. For those who want to venture beyond, there are bicycles available at the resort and nearby golf and tennis and deep-sea diving. | |||||
| Rates | |||||
| One-bedroom villa from US$1,100 (about A$1,039) per night, two-bedroom suite from US$1,100 (about A$1,039) per night and the deluxe suite are from US$765 (about A$722) per night. All include breakfast | |||||
| thelegianbali.com | |||||
| Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay | |||||
| There are two Four Seasons properties in Bali which makes itinerary planning seamless for lovers of the sophisticated Four Seasons brand of luxury. Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay sports generously-sized private, thatched-roof Balinese villas with separate sleeping, bathing and living pavilions set in lush gardens with their own courtyards and plunge pools with views out over the bay. Richly decorated with tastefully and thoughtfully selected fabrics and artifacts and handcrafted teak furniture, guests avoid those depressing “made-for-the-tourist-market” decorations that are so prevalent throughout the island. The bathrooms have deep tubs and indoor and outdoor showers and the living areas feature Bose entertainment centres. If you can’t tear yourself away from the peace and privacy of your villa you can have the spa come to you with an in-villa treatment, but the large and luxurious spa suites are certainly worth the visit at some point in your stay. You might want to stop by The Spa Juice Bar to sip a herbal elixir on the outdoor terrace while you hold on to, for just a little longer, that blissfully relaxed state that immediately follows a good massage. For the health and fitness minded, the fitness centre facilities and activities are extensive. There’s a whirlpool, steam room and sauna, stretch, yoga, aerobics, Tai Chi, kickboxing, sailing and meditation classes as well as tennis, windsurfing, kayaking and a sunset mountain biking tour. A lot of resorts offer cooking classes but the cooking school at the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay is a serious affair housed in its own air-conditioned building with an adjacent dining area. With the guidance of a professional chef, the meal you’ll create will be among the best you’ll eat in Bali even if you do say so yourself. The four other dining experiences at the resort, all open-air, feature spectacular views over Jimbaran Bay. The cuisine options include Indonesian and Balinese dishes and Italian regional fare, as well as pizza and pasta | |||||
| Rates | |||||
| A one-bedroom villa is from US$680 (about A$642) per night and a two-bedroom villa is from US$1,700 (about A$1,605) per night. | |||||
| fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay | |||||
| Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan | |||||
| Just 15 minutes from Ubud, the creative heart of Bali, nestled in the jungle beside the sacred Ayung River, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan offers a completely different perspective from its sister property on the coast. An architecturally exciting entrance, a sky high lily pond sits above the jungle canopy and creates the shade for the hotel lobby below, sets up expectations for a remarkable stay. This isn’t just another luxury resort in a destination of luxury resorts. Drinks at sunset are occasionally hosted underneath the giant pond where guests get to mingle and gaze out over the valley’s edge. The beautiful guest villas and suites are luxurious in size, many with private pools and all superbly appointed in the Four Seasons way with well selected furnishings from local crafts people. The property’s spa villas are set down close to the fast-flowing river which provides a soothing natural soundscape for spa treatments. Although for many Bali is all about the tropical climate and the beaches, for many others its about the peace and exoticism of the jungle and the friendly locals and their arts and cultural products. The temperatures are generally a little cooler up in the mountains and the Four Seasons Sayan is a perfect base from which to explore Ubud, the cultural centre of the island. For a small charge a car and driver can be arranged with concierge, but the resort also offers daily, complimentary trekking and cycling. When you return the staff will serve you something refreshing at the resort pool down by the river. | |||||
| Rates | |||||
| One-bedroom villa from US$680 (about A$642) per night, one- bedroom suite from US$535 (about A$505) and a two–bedroom villa is from US$2,100 (about A$1,983) per night | |||||
| fourseasons.com/sayan/ | |||||
| Ubud Hanging Gardens | |||||
| Also near Ubud on the Ayung River this Orient-Express hotel is a jungle retreat. It is dramatically perched on a gorge overlooking rampant rainforest vegetation with a magical- looking temple in the distance. The resort’s villas, designed to mirror the architecture of the temple, are also magical. They seem to float in this blissful garden valley landscape and each with its own large, private infinity pool, feels as if it were the only one in the valley. I’d be very surprised to hear it but if you can’t relax in the peace and tranquility of your villa, take yourself immediately to the Ayung Spa. The treatment pavilions are designed to feel as much a part of the surrounding jungle as possible, while still providing shelter from the occasional tropical shower. You breathe in the warm jungle air that carries the scents of exotic jungle flowers and the sounds of the gurgling river. The three dining venues at Ubud Hanging Gardens are also open-air and its difficult to imagine a more romantic setting for an evening meal than Beduur Restaurant with the twinkling lights of the temple in sight just across the gorge. At the Diatas Pohon Café light, healthy snacks are served and don’t miss the daily complimentary afternoon tea there on your way back fro the spa. Balinese cocktails are served at the Bukit Becik Bar. Back at your villa, if you’re lucky, a monkey family may emerge from the jungle to cool off in your pool. The slightest sign of you will send them packing so stay very still. No sudden moves or sounds. | |||||
| Rates | |||||
| Riverside deluxe pool villa from US$490 (about A$463) per night, panoramic deluxe pool villa from US$540 (about A$510) per night, panoramic pool villa suite from US$620 (about A$586) per night and duplex family pool villa is from US$670 (about A$633) per night. | |||||
| ubudhanginggardens.com | |||||
| The Chedi Club at Tanah Gajah | |||||
| Set on a five-hectare estate and surrounded by working rice fields, The Chedi Club at Tanah Gajah in Ubud started out as the private family holiday retreat of a very wealthy Balinese architect. Each of the estate’s 20 luxury villas, many with their own 10-metre pools, are fitted out with Bose entertainment centres and surrounded by high walls to create private, indoor/outdoor sanctuaries. If you’re staying in a villa, the only person you need see during your stay is your personal butler who’ll set up for you to dine in the pavilion by your pool if you wish. With all the other modern comforts and amenities in place, the rural backdrop of The Chedi Club is its star feature which is why the club’s premier restaurant, the open-air The Restaurant and Club Lounge is set amidst lush green rice fields that stretch off into the distance in all directions. The spa too is set in tranquil rice fields, as is the yoga studio. The creator of this charming bucolic Balinese paradise had an eye for design. Delightful vignettes greet guests during a stroll around the grounds: gingham draped elephant statues stand in gorgeously landscaped settings and black swans and ducks make their way around the grounds too. There’s a tennis court and a 35-metre pool in the grounds, as well as a well-equipped fitness centre but for those for whom Ubud, with all of its surrounding craft villages, is the main attraction, you’ll find that as close as three kilometres away. | |||||
| Rates | |||||
| One-bedroom suite from US$320 (about A$309) per night, one- bedroom pool villa from US$539 (about A$520) per night, one-bedroom spa villa from US$549 (about A$530) per night and the two-bedroom estate from US$912 (about A$881) per night all including breakfast. | |||||
| When to go | |||||
| Bali is beautiful year-round, although it’s best to avoid the stifling humidity and heavy rains in the summer months. Any time between April and September would be ideal. | |||||
| Getting there | |||||
| Jetstar has 29 direct flights to Denpasar per week, departing from various Australian cities. Economy fares from Sydney start from A$329 each way, Melbourne from A$299 each way and Perth and Darwin from A$129 each way. Full business class fares are only available from Sydney and start from A$702 each way. | |||||
| jetstar.com | |||||
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