Story by Alice Coomans
In the late 1970’s Alla Wolf-Tasker set out with her husband, Allan, to create a restaurant in the sleepy country town of Daylesford, Victoria, that she hoped would be – in the words of the Michelin Guide – worthy of a detour or even a journey. Her dream, the Lake House, is now not only a French-inspired restaurant serving regional cuisine that has garnered a loyal following, but a Small Luxury Hotel with 33 guest rooms and suites. The day I make my journey to the Lake House (a 90-minute drive from Melbourne), the clouds are hanging low and threatening rainfall. Set as it is in the middle of Australia’s spa country (there are more mineral springs in this area than in the rest of Australia combined) rainfall seems oddly appropriate. I check into a waterfront suite for the weekend. While there are other rooms available, the waterfront suites are the place to be; from my verandah I have an unobstructed view of the ducks making their way across the misty lake, dipping and weaving among willow branches hanging from the banks. The suites all have double spa baths, heated bathroom floors, walk-in robes, satellite television and data port, making them the perfect place to curl up on a rainy afternoon. Another advantage of these rooms is that they are directly adjacent to the Lake House’s Salus Day Spa, which includes on its spa menu hot mineral baths: Japanese-like tubs, in private treetop houses. On Saturday I venture to afternoon tea, served in the guest lounge. It is a relaxed – and delicious – start to a wonderful evening in the main restaurant. Located on the bank of the lake, the restaurant is a sea of pressed white linen, warm plum upholstered chairs, and lively paintings by Allan Wolf-Tasker. A relaxed contemporary setting, it has a warm ‘dinner party’ feel by night. At dinner, I choose a formal degustation menu with matched wines. Courses such as Blinchik with wild rice and forest mushrooms, and rabbit fillet in Tunisian pastry with spiced rabbit braise come seamlessly from the kitchen. The food, the service, and the setting combine to make a restaurant of the highest calibre. The Lake House truly is a culinary destination worth making a journey for. A two-night weekend bed and breakfast package in a waterfront suite, including dinner on Friday night, starts from $1290 per couple, www.lakehouse.com.au or www.slh.com.
Alla Wolf-Tasker’s new book, Lake House: A culinary journey in country Australia, featuring over 100 favourite recipes from the Lake House