GO EAST, YOUNG MAN
Go East, Young Man - Luxury Travel Magazine
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Go East, Young Man | |||||
| By Michael Shaw, Issue 46 – Autumn 11 | |||||
| (Singapore) | |||||
| WITH ALL THE MOMENTUM IN MODERN DINING COMING FROM THE EAST, THE OLD WORLD IS STARTING TO LOOK WELL… DEFEATED. MICHAEL SHAW ASKS: IS SINGAPORE THE NEW CENTRE OF THE CULINARY UNIVERSE? | |||||
| For many years Singapore’s reputation as a culinary destination was solely for its street hawker food. Dreamy, creamy fish head soup, punchy Laksa and sweet iced Chendol are known far and wide. Prosperity and a newfound worldly sophistication have brought to the previously stitched-up state many changes. The liberalisation that allowed the casino along with the decision to host the formula one Grand Prix, among other things, shows how Singapore sees itself now; and Singaporeans want great food too. The restaurant scene still has those themed, tourist venue fly traps, indicative of how branding has gripped Southeast Asia. They’re okay but beyond them there’s some world class dining available that you must try. Some sites have had revamps and many venerable haut cuisine big names have new venues in the new Marina Bay complex catering to locals and travellers in a food and wine scene alive with possibility. As with Hong Kong, being at a nexus of the world trade routes has enabled chefs to source specialised and exotic ingredients in the freshest condition. And the great chefs here put those ingredients to work wonderfully with the best wines from around the world. | |||||
| Les Amis | |||||
| Slightly out of the way behind Orchard Road, Les Amis has been around since 1984, but a revamp has transformed it in every way. Intimate, modern and luxurious, the main room and mezzanine are dominated by a chandelier, but the six private rooms have a more old-world private home feel. The menu is modern with the occasional hint of Asian influence but not at all fusion. The service is professional and engaging and the atmosphere modern and quite luxurious. The menu has many surprises but the ciabatta wrapped crispy egg with Iberico ham, spinach and white Alba truffle was a tour de force of texture and flavour. At once creamy, crunchy and indulgently flavoursome. The Panko crusted Amadai (tilefish sourced from Japan) with smoked mushroom ragout and spring onions took advantage of the nuanced flavour of the fish; rich and fresh together. When the famous French chef Bocuse described nouvelle cuisine as “nothing on the plate, everything on the bill” we all laughed. My regular gripe is: everything in the description, nothing in the mouth. But here it’s the opposite. The menu description is restrained but the food complex and interesting; and the ingredients’ natural flavour and freshness are allowed to rule. Truffles, abalone, Alaskan crab, Spanish octopus and American squab treated all with respect. And it’s partly the availability of these exotic ingredients that makes dining in Singapore so special. Of course there’s the attraction of the wine list of 2,000 mostly French labels cellared on site. Even if you’re well versed in your Burgundy or Bordeax it is a treat to let Maitre D’ Royston Soo suggest wines for you. There are real star treats like the Clos de Vougeat Grand Cru 2002 by Nicolas Potel that I’ll never forget. Finally the dessert of compressed Japanese cucumber, strawberries and caramelised rapeseed brioche is well renowned and a beautiful way to finish. I often find those heavy, very sweet deserts overwhelm the meal, but this was refreshing. Address: 1 Scotts Road, #02-14/16 Shaw Centre (Opposite HSBC Bank, Tanglin Branch) Ph: +65 6733 2225 lesamis.com.sg | |||||
| Guy Savoy | |||||
| Housed in the new Marina Bay Sands, the eponymous restaurant Guy Savoy is the latest site for the Parisienne master. Overlooking the harbour with quietly sophisticated decor, but a world from the bustling casino below, the feeling is sleek and modern. I was immediately struck by the crisp and welcoming service and style. The beaten copper ceiling, the muted tones, even the cutlery is – ah well – cutting edge. The knife and spoon combined in one that allows you to cut and spoon with one implement made me feel like I was getting away with licking my knife. The menu blends the magisterial traditions of Paris with new world style but French, very French of course. There are truffles galore on the menu and butter, naturally. In France now the talk is all about how the rest of the world is leaving French cuisine behind: French cooking is resting on very old laurels. But here the new is embraced without ignoring the past. Accompanied by the house apple champagne, the amuse Bouchè of Foie Gras with crunchy bread was perfect simplicity, but complexity would soon follow. I started with Maine lobster, raw-cooked, with cold steam that engulfed the dish when presented, served with caramelised lobster roe and cool lobster bisque. It was creamy, incredibly flavoursome and theatrical to boot; a spectacular dish. The recommended Poully-Fumé with its smoky minerality was a perfect foil to the richness of the dish. The scallop carpaccio with orchietti and shaved white truffle was a triumph of texture and flavour. The famed artichoke and black truffle soup served with toasted mushroom brioche and black truffle butter was wonderfully indulgent, alive with taste. And finally the squab was done two ways, en papillote and roasted, accompanied by sweetbreads perfectly cooked, glazed and rich, rich, rich. It was a true feast, with fine wines at every course. A dinner at Guy Savoy is an indulgence indeed but that is the whole point. It would be a crime to go there and skimp. Address: Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront Avenue #L2-01 Casino Level 2 Ph: +65 6688 8513 marinabaysands.com/Restaurants/Guy_Savoy.aspx | |||||
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