GRAND DESIGNS
Grand Designs - Luxury Travel Magazine
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Grand Designs | |||||
| By Merry Kirkwood, Issue 33 - Summer 2008 | |||||
| (The Empire Hotel & Country Club – Brunei) | |||||
| THE VAST AND IMPOSING EMPIRE HOTEL & COUNTRY CLUB IS SURROUNDED BY SOME OF S.E. ASIA’S MOST PRISTINE RAINFOREST. SOMEHOW THE CONTRAST WORKS. | |||||
| It’s such a simple, honest – and yet bemusing – faux pas. And, possibly understandable given the setting: a humble timber cottage suspended on stilts in the ‘water village’ over the Brunei River, where a local family is serving us afternoon tea; a groaning variety of sugary-sweet and bamboo-wrapped delicacies. The communication channels are challenging as well: our English versus our host’s Malay. So it’s lucky a winning smile and an embarrassed laugh save the day. To my dismay, I have just mistakenly suggested via hand gestures that the wedding portrait on the roughly painted feature wall is that of His Majesty the Sultan of Brunei (Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah) and his First Wife, rather than that of our generous hosts. They giggle softly, while my face reddens. Given the swathes of gold fabric, ceremonial headgear and general regalia adorning both bride and groom, anyone could have been so easily mistaken. Surely? Brunei itself is like that, on reflection: simple, honest, and certainly entertaining in an unexpected way. Brunei is also small (less than 300,000 people), and out of the way yet not-that-hardto- get-to (situated on the island of Borneo, completely surrounded by Sarawak, Malaysia, a seven hour flight from Sydney, yet only 4 hours from Perth). What’s more, it is naturally beautiful (think to-die-for pristine rainforest – a stand-alone reason to visit), and unfathomably wealthy: Brunei is the last remnant of a powerful oil-rich 600-year old royal Sultanate that regained its independence from the United Kingdom in 1984, with one of the world’s highest per capita incomes. Brunei (full name Brunei Darussalam) is also home to one of the most remarkable five (some say six) star hotel/resort complexes across the globe – The Empire Hotel & Country Club. With an irreverent tweak, the words from our own Lara Bingle are quite fitting in relation to Brunei: ‘So where the bloody hell is it anyway?’ Many still think somewhere middle-eastern, say near Dubai or Saudi Arabia. Bahrain perhaps? Brunei…? The confusion is easy to understand on one hand, but somewhat insulting on another. And, for Australian travellers, somewhat short-changing since this colourful destination is located nearly on our doorstep. Swanning through the expansive lobby of The Empire later that first afternoon, the contrast to the water village and its brightly painted yet dilapidated cottages couldn’t be greater. The charming humility of our first hosts is in stark opposition to the hotel’s oasis of calm and capaciousness that oozes luxury from every nook and cranny. An army of well dressed, smiling staff, and a treasure chest of highly polished decorative embellishments (including Tiger’s-Eye in-fills, 24 carat gold inlays, character- filled domes, and curved roof profiles) speak loudly of the no-expense-spared Islamic-inspired architecture and design behind this surprising hotel. Not that it would be to everyone’s taste. Palatial sized hallways and oversized doorways span out from the 12-storey central gold and marble lobby, restaurant, and shopping area, and lead to the 359 rooms and 61 suites and villas. It’s hard to say which exact moment won me over. Was it the quiet chuckle we shared over the wedding portrait? (A justifiable mistake once you realise the love of the Sultan is so pervasive that homes, shops, mosques and hotels are ALL adorned with his image.) Or was it floating down the river in the fading afternoon light ‘spotting’ wild families of proboscis monkeys swinging through the tall bowers and roaming free through pockets of untouched rainforest? An experience all within close proximity of the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan, and only a short trip from the hotel. Most likely it was sometime during my full day ‘rainforest escape’, when I gave myself over to a near military-like manoeuvre that included a local ferry ride into the Temburong district, followed by a bumpy-road tour, a long-boat cruise along the river, and a brisk walk up (and back down) a 1,200 step walkway to the see the leafy rainforest ‘roof of the world’ from a metal scaffold. It left me unable to speak with the wonder of the untouched beauty, and the sticky-hot tropical exertion. But I’d recommend it to anyone. Given the recent 2007 announcement of the ‘Heart of Borneo’ declaration which agreed to conserve a local area of Borneo five times the size of Switzerland, this rainforest adventure would be a highlight in any visitors trip, but to be honest, finally snuggling into the silky smooth bedding back in my spacious suite at The Empire at day’s end, was a powerful part of my Brunei luxury courtship. My own suite featured three distinct spaces and a number of balconies: a bedroom, lounge area, and bathroom each so large they could host a private party. At 60sqm, the hotel prides itself on their industry leading size. And why not, I ask? When you are a Sultan, and one of your family companies’ has the chance to build a 180 hectare beautiful garden hotel complex sitting into the South China Sea, with suites, villas, pools, a country club that houses a Spa, fitness centre and bowling alley (much loved by the kids), a cinema, live performance theatre, disco, Jack Nicklaus signature Golf Course and all the accoutrements that go with being a six-star resort, it seems silly not to show off your little slice of paradise. The piece de resistance would have to be the indoor pool with drop-down theatre screen in the ultimate $26,000 per night 650 sqm Emperor suite. Incidentally, my ‘resort’ time by the pool was some of the most relaxing I have enjoyed for a while. Cheery waitstaff at the ever-ready, a perfect mix of pool or spa water temperatures allowing me to dip back and forth between the eight pools depending on my mood, and a raft of dining options on offer. Don’t miss the buffet lunch at The Atrium Café, or dinner at Spagettini’s. Cuisine at The Empire is genuinely inexpensive and fine quality. Not to forget the cocktails – fruit-based and non-alcoholic, of course. It’s best to be well prepared if you enjoy a drink, as this whole country is a NO alcohol zone. (Your own duty-free supply can be brought to Brunei’s better restaurants, and then served quietly during your meal – check regulations when you travel.) To top off my by-the-pool fantasy afternoon, the real life Princesses (designer-decked, and fabulously gorgeous, direct from the Sultan’s palace nearby) came to sun themselves just over yonder, behind a group of palms… But away from the heavy warmth of an indulgent sun day, the hotel can arrange other tour options. Though shopping in Brunei is not a real attraction, like all serious shoppers I take a peek at the city night markets anyway. Deep-sea diving is a dream. Visit the local Mosques. And take time to make a ‘city tour’, which should include the fascinating Royal Regalia Museum. Or simply pool, spa and restaurant ‘hop’ within the hotel and resort complex. Though drinking is not allowed in Brunei, we are high on the ‘spirit’ of the place. Brunei, aptly promoted, lives up to its tourism catch phrase – ‘unexpected treasures’. As a hotel experience, The Empire is one of them. | |||||
| Details: | |||||
| The Empire Hotel & Country Club: www.theempirehotel.com | |||||
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