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Jumbo Jet Set
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By: John Maddocks, Issue 35 – Winter 2008
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(Phinda Private Game Reserve – KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa)
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SOMETIMES THE WILD ANIMALS ARE ALMOST TOO CLOSE FOR COMFORT FOR THOSE WHO FLY INTO SOUTH AFRICA TO VISIT PHINDA GAME RESERVE.
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As we round the corner on a remote track in Phinda Game Reserve in our open four wheel-drive vehicle, we come face to face with the huge bull elephant we’ve been tracking for over an hour. He is less than ten metres away, and obviously very surprised to see us. Our guide Mike immediately switches off the engine. The elephant’s ears spread wide and he lowers his head to charge. The woman in the seat behind me instinctively dives towards the floor. Our early morning scenic safari drive has suddenly become an adrenaline-charged confrontation with one of the most formidable and dangerous members of the animal kingdom.
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The only thing between me and death by elephant turns out not to be the .458 Winchester Magnum rifle perched above the landcruiser’s dashboard (the weapon known among gun aficionados as the ‘elephant stopper’), but our specialist guide Mike Karantonis. There is no time to reach for the rifle and aim it anyway. The only thing leveled at the enraged elephant is my camera, and I am determined to get a shot, even if it kills me. But Mike quietly tells me to lower the camera. “If the flash goes off, he’ll charge,” Mike whispers.
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Mike then shocks me by banging the outside of the vehicle’s door furiously with his hand and shouting loudly at the elephant. The elephant doesn’t move, however. Mike repeats the banging and shouting. Slowly the elephant raises his head, and after standing his ground for long moments, turns and ambles away.
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“It’s all about the difference between confrontation and conflict,” Mike assures me later when we stop for a calming cup of tea in the bush. “Animals know deep down that if confrontation turns into conflict they can be injured or even killed, so in most cases they consciously decide to take avoidance procedures.” I keep this in mind when we come up-close to lions, leopards, cheetahs and rhinos in the following days. During my visit to Phinda I come to rely on Mike’s expertise, as I discover that he is no ordinary guide. In addition to being an expert on the region’s fauna and flora and involved in a number of international research projects, Mike is fluent in the Zulu language. This ensures that his rapport with the Zulu trackers he works with every day is second to none.
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Spending time in the company of such skilled guides and trackers is a large part of the total package offered at Phinda. The allure of this unique 21,000-hectare game reserve lies in the fact that you are entering an unknown natural realm of possibilities, and the quality of the personnel will determine your experience.
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My time at Phinda introduces me to the A to Z of the South African safari. The ‘A’ is for animals, including the ‘Big 5’ of lion, elephant, African buffalo, leopard and black rhinoceros, as well as myriad other animals including everything from amazing dung beetles (900 species can visit a pile of elephant droppings over a 24-hour period) to giraffes and wildebeest. The ‘Z’ includes discovering that zebras are the most romantic of animals, mating for life and finding separation unbearable.
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After morning and evening game watching expeditions, I return to a Forest Lodge, one of seven different luxuriously appointed accommodations spread throughout the reserve. Forest Lodges feature glass walls that allow guests to see a variety of wildlife passing by, including baboons and antelope.
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The highlights of the safari for me are the encounters with Phinda’s array of big cats – the lions, leopards and cheetahs. We spend an hour one evening in the company of a lioness relaxing near a waterhole. She happens to be an animal Mike has studied for over three years.
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“When this lioness was young she broke away from the pride she was born in, moved north and later gave birth to four female cubs in the sand forest,” Mike says. “She then became an incredible hunter, killing up to four zebras or wildebeest every day. I’ve seen lions all over Africa, and in my opinion she has the most beautifully formed facial features of all.”
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Phinda also conducts the Munyawana leopard research program, the largest in South Africa. Twelve leopards have been collared and electronically monitored for five years, and we undertake a high-tech hunt for one of these elusive animals. After an hour spent plunging through dense undergrowth in the landcruiser, we come upon a feisty eighteen-month-old female who charges within metres of our vehicle. Mike reminds us to remain very still, and after a few loud snarls, this magnificent creature retreats. I feel as though I’m mastering the basics of wild animal confrontation.
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The leopard and cheetah viewing are features of an adventure safari called ‘Seven wonders in seven days’. Seven is the magic number at Phinda, given that the reserve has seven distinct habitats and seven different safari lodges. The concept allows up to six guests to share adventures over seven days, staying in a variety of lodges throughout the game park in order to maximise the experience.
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The safari is run by Mike Karantonis and, in addition to tracking the big cats, the itinerary includes viewing black rhinos, getting up close to an elephant herd, riding horses along deserted beaches and exploring a superb dive site. Guests also take a cultural community trip through Phinda’s neighbouring Zulu villages.
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All this is accompanied by outstanding food and wine and first class service that frees you to focus entirely on the adventure.
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Details:
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Phinda Private Game Reserve
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