LISBON

Lisbon - Luxury Travel Magazine


Lisbon’s Living Legacy


By: Carol West, Issue 37 – Summer 2009
(Lisbon, Portugal)

PORTUGAL’S LISBON IS SURE TO BE ON THE LUXURY HOT LIST FOR 2009.

The great Portuguese master mariners of the 15th and 16th centuries brought more than prestige and global influence to Portugal. While their seafaring exploits put Portugal on the international trading map and a colonial empire was established abroad, the wealth that flowed voraciously from the New World enabled Lisbon to flourish. Not even the earthquake of 1755 could dampen the city’s expression of flowery Gothic romanticism. Nowadays, Lisbon’s highly decorative voice can be seen and heard through a unique combination of art, literature and architecture that has transformed it into an international city acknowledged by the New York Times as one of this year’s hot destinations.

A fortunate by-product of past glories is that the historic houses of wealthy merchants and former aristocratic palaces have now become hotels, their cultural heritage creating evocative environments with luxe touches. Originally erected around 1770, Heritage Av Liberdade Hotel was once part of an extensive property portfolio owned by the Ericeiras, one of Portugal’s most illustrious families. Located on the corner of Lisbon’s ‘Champs Elysees’, it offers a bridge between modernity and the past. Here even the lift comes with attitude, its doors inscribed with flowing poetry open to reveal a mosaic tiled floor and images of Lisbon at the turn of the century. Upstairs the city centre swirls beyond thick walls and double glazing and French doors open onto wrought-iron embellished balconies. Across the avenue, the Lavra funicular transports visitors to one of Lisbon’s most beautiful hills and the excitement of Bairro Alto’s nightlife.

The internal restoration was undertaken by Portuguese architect Miguel Cancio Martins, internationally famous for his interventions in spaces such as Paris’s Buddha Bar, Strictly Hush in London, and Man Ray in New York. His distinctive trademark is evident in the cosmopolitan hotel lobby that displays a fascinating mix of modern edge and past glory combining comfort with cutting edge. Lisbon’s signature Pombaline azulejo tiles decorate the interior, and wooden shutters with original iron fittings have been restored, while an apothecary’s drawers and wooden counter that once dispensed natural remedies is a fragrant reminder of Lisbon’s oldest pharmacy.

Lisbon is a romantic city that’s attracting star power wattage from Madonna and Guy Ritchie to John Malkovich who coowns the immensely popular restaurant Bica do Sapato. From its royal origins, today Lapa Palace hotel hosts rock royalty including regular guest Sting who always requests room 701,the Tower Suite. Resembling a luxurious garret, taking breakfast on top of the small rooftop tower while the city stirs below and the river spreads before you is a wonderfully romantic notion.

Built high on a rock overlooking the Tagus River, Lapa Palace is living Portuguese history in an area of steep streets and steeper prices. Transformed into a sumptuous palace in 1883 by the Count of Valencas, who engaged leading artists of the day to create masterful stained glass windows and unique Portuguese porcelain which has been retained throughout. River vistas and the tantalizing aroma of fresh lilies make this a hotel with an impeccable pedigree.

Metamorphosed from palace to hotel in 1993, it’s full of seductive spaces and new wings have been constructed in the spirit of the original palace. Sipping a glass of ubiquitous port on the generous balcony, we’re soothed by the sound of cascading water and the sight of an immense luxuriant garden and spectacular 20m turquoise pool. In the spa, it seems only natural that the most popular treatment is a 90 minute caviar firming facial.

Down on Lisbon’s waterfront, 32 carved figures, shavenheaded monks, armoured knights and silken courtiers crowd around Henry the Navigator on the prow of a mighty limestone ship known as the Monument of Discoveries. Jutting into the Tagus River, it captures the spirit and passion of Portugal’s great maritime adventurers whose seafaring past has bequeathed Lisbon with a vibrant, living legacy.


AT A GLANCE
Shopping: Take the Santa Justa elevator to the cosmopolitan Chiado district where locals shop the exclusive boutiques and mainstream fashion labels.

Eating: Cipriani Restaurant in Lapa Palace is named after the famous hotel that is part of the Orient Express group. Sit on the terrace for a relaxed lunch in the sun or enjoy elegant fine dining at night.

What’s Hot: Café Pasteis de Belem have been making mouth-watering Portuguese custard tarts since 1837 and business shows no signs of slowing down.

What’s Not: Eating salted cod, the national dish bacalhau, at tourist cafes off Rossio Square.


Details:
Heritage Av Liberdade
Lapa Palace
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