LIZARD LOUNGING

Lizard Lounging - Luxury Travel Magazine


Lizard Lounging


By: Michael Hutak – Issue 45, Summer 2011

(Lizard Island, Great Barrier Reef, North Queensland)

FOLLOWING A RECENT REFURBISHMENT, A TIMELESS TRAVEL MASTERPIECE IN THE PRISTINE GREAT BARRIER REEF WORLD HERITAGE AREA IS MAKING A COMEBACK WRITES MICHAEL HUTAK.

In today’s executive lifestyle people are more connected than ever, but being accessible 24/7 can lead quickly to burnout. Periodically we all need to take time out, and for those fortunate few of means, Lizard Island offers one of the world’s most rewarding opportunities to renew. This all-inclusive, super-exclusive resort accommodates a maximum of just 80 guests in 40 luxury villas, and is accessible only by a one-hour flight from Australia’s tropical Far North.

Since its inception as a resort in the early 1970s, Lizard has been the Jet Set’s secret getaway; a place not to be seen, but simply to be. A place to experience nature’s wonder while enjoying simple, unpretentious but superbly-finished and appointed facilities. For those in the public glare, Lizard’s own private airfield means the paparazzi are always a world away. Located 240km north of Cairns on the spectacular Great Barrier Reef, fringed with coral reefs and 24 powder white beaches, Lizard Island offers world-class diving, snorkelling right off the beach, inner- and outer-reef fishing, the finest of gourmet dining, sumptuous villa accommodation and an above-and-beyond level of service. The five islands of the Lizard Island Group National Park are part of the Great Barrier Reef World Heritage Area and the stunning bio-diversity on display, especially in the outer-reef, means Lizard is often counted among the world’s top five diving locations.

For the hyper-connected business person, arrival in your luxury villa can be a bit of a (non) culture shock. The furnishings are warm, with natural woods and views of Anchor Bay and the beach is just 20 metres away. But where is the TV, the internet access and the mobile phone coverage? “Lizard Island is the perfect escape for when we really need to wind down, rediscover ourselves, and recharge,” explains General Manager, Robyn Pontynen. “We have internet access and media facilities in the Guest Lodge which is open 24 hours but the idea is to enjoy all this stunning location has to offer and that includes not just the natural environment but also it’s remoteness - here is a place to truly switch off the rest of the world. It can be a shock for the first day but then people really do enjoy being inaccessible and it’s part of the allure of Lizard.”

Ms Pontynen knows the resort like no-one else, having overseen an extensive modernisation for then-owners Qantas in 1999, and now, returning in 2010 to embark on a further refurbishment at the behest of the new management, the New York-based Delaware North Parks and Resorts, which acquired Lizard Island from the real estate trust GTP Group in 2009 as part of a package of five luxury resort properties which includes El Questro Wilderness Park & Homestead, in The Kimberley, WA; Heron Island, and Wilson Island, both also in the Great Barrier Reef; and Kings Canyon Resort, Northern Territory

At Lizard, Delaware has made a large scale investment in an upgrade of both the accommodation and guest facilities and in the back-of-house infrastructure. Under Ms Pontynen, an ambitious program of renewal has begun starting with a luxurious soft refurbishment just completed in time for the 2011 calendar year. “We want to ensure that the resort experience again matches the magnificence of this extraordinary environment we have here all around us,” she told Luxury Travel Magazine.

Despite its remoteness, Lizard’s waters are extremely safe for human frolicking: there may be up to 125 species of shark in the Great Barrier
Reef, but at Lizard none of them are dangerous and besides, they already have plenty of food on their menu in the shape of the teeming hordes of tropical fish. The biggest and rarely-present danger is posed by the poisonous Cone Shell, but since taking any shell, coral or marine life out of the National Park attracts hefty fines, its just another good reason to look in wonder and avoid touching and disturbing these pristine habitats.

With a staff to guest ratio that borders on one-to-one, the service at Lizard is intimate, friendly, informed and experienced. Expect your waiter to know which Margaret River red goes best with your Kingfish fillets. Rob, our personal waiter for a divine seven-course degustation, told us about the daily briefings with two-hatted executive chef, Mark Jensen, when wait staff will hear Jensen’s menu for the day, after which they must propose a wine to accompany each dish, and most importantly to say why. Lizard’s staff members are clearly dedicated to the art of fine food and wine, and are even keener to ensure their passion results in a superlative dining experience for the guests.

The Lodge is the social hub of Lizard, a broad open-air verandah where guests dine, imbibe, chat and meet each other. Lizard has over the years played host to scores of famous people looking for a brief respite from the limelight: Al Gore, Charlize Theron, Matthew McConaughey, Kate Hudson, to name a few. The resort is also very popular among Europeans, mostly Italians and Spaniards stunned to find a watery playground that matches the very best the Mediterranean can offer.

Lizard offers an authentic Australian travel experience that is stress-free from both a natural and cultural standpoint. The marine staff especially embody this principle: their easy going charm is underpinned by a deep knowledge and respect for the Great Barrier Reef and its unique biodiversity. “We consider ourselves educators,” drawls ‘Damo’ (Damien to his mother) as we approach our drop-off to the stunning and secluded Mermaid’s Cove, for a lunchtime picnic. “Making sure guests get both the beauty AND the back story, the history, means we can all help ensure the reef stays unspoilt forever.” At beaches like Mermaid’s, for instance, Damo showed us where we could snorkel freely among a cornucopia of fish, large and small, along reefs just 10 metres from shore, in complete safety, stress free.

All inclusive means just that: no hidden extras, but if you want a little more it can of course be had, be it in the form of a A$500 bottle of French champagne or just A$85 for a private guided tour of the reef’s hidden (and not so hidden) wonders. “Included” meanwhile does mean those drops offs to and from secluded beaches, and it does mean your gourmet picnic hamper (with generous helpings of king prawns, smoked salmon, fine cheeses, perhaps a roast chicken salad), and your
favourite bubbly chilled in its own icebox.

With a water temp range year round between 24 and 30 degrees, you will tempted to take that midnight swim where you can float and contemplate the constellations in hitherto unheard-of levels of privacy.

If you can afford Lizard Island you can afford most anything, but one doesn’t come here to shop and you won’t find much more than thongs, sarongs and trinkets at the lobby shop. However with its focus on service, comfort, seclusion, gastronomy and the wonders of the reef, it’s true to say all one’s material and spiritual needs are met. Lizard is also legendary for its big game fishing and for decades hunters from all over the world gather especially in October to test themselves and each other against the famed “1000 pound” marlins of these crystal clear waters. The resort is literally buzzing during this annual festival with yachties and big game aficionados, and today of course, the practice is “catch and release”.


BRAIN FOOD
Whether you’ve been snorkeling or diving or just lazing on the beach picnicking on gourmet food Lizard sates all appetites, however there is also brain food on the menu. The Lizard Island Research Centre, a facility of the Australian Museum, established in 1973, is located at the other end of the island and welcomes guests to tour the facilities and learn about the unique biodiversity of the Great Barrier Reef. About 60 different research projects are carried out each year by professional scientists and students.

Or, for land lovers, the whole island other than the small footprint of the resort, is a protected National Park. There are several walks varying in difficulty that one of Lizard Island’s passionate and knowledgeable guides can take you on if going solo isn’t your style. Wander through the prehistoric wilderness eating bush tucker and learning about the medicinal benefits of the native bush. Hear about the colourful European history of the island and the Chinese harvesting of sea cucumbers - a delicacy that today you won’t find on the menu. For more information on the National Park visit
derm.qld.gov.au/parks/lizard-island/index.html

FOCUS ON FOOD
Lizard’s Executive Chef, 33-year-old Mark Jensen, is recently back for his second stint at the helm at Lizard. Ambitious, passionate yet modest, Jensen plays down his several “Best Restaurant” awards and two Chef’s Hats (earned when Head Chef at Marco Polo, in Brisbane). Unwittingly starting out at the top, Jensen, age 19, walked into London celebrity chef Ed Bains’ hip Randall & Aubinat restaurant in Soho before spending time learning his craft with masters like Gordon Ramsey and Marcus Wareing. After four years in London and Paris, Jensen returned home to finish two degrees and undertake an apprenticeship. It’s clear he wants to meet the challenge the surrounding reef poses. “You can’t do the butters and creams up here, it’s too hot,” he told Luxury Travel Magazine, “I like to mix French techniques with lighter Asian and Middle Eastern flavours.” Seventy per cent of guests are international and Jensen wants them to experience and appreciate the best contemporary Australian cuisine. “We are a modern country with a modern cuisine, we aren’t tied down by tradition. I like to deconstruct it so the whole meal isn’t a one bowl wonder but you grab parts and bring it together into a whole meal.”

Jensen’s creations for lunch and dinner change daily so it’s impossible to get bored, but if a simple steak is what you want, ask and it’s yours, or, as one couple did - order in your favourite mud crab and it’s on your table the next day, flown in privately, served exactly as you desire. Jensen works miracles. It’s hard to believe the island is so remote as you’re feasting on so much fresh produce so far from the mainland.

All the food and wine (except a spectacular exclusive cellar) is included in the tariff which makes wining and dining even more indulgent. But for the ultimate dining experience don’t miss out on your own degustation menu. The experience begins in the morning with a consultation with Chef Jensen who finds out your dietary requirements, needs, likes and dislikes. Only one word gets him started and you’re carried along on a creative journey through seven courses of your choosing. That night, under a private canopy on the water’s edge the food you imagined in the morning materialises on your plate. For the next two hours or so your private waiter keeps the mouthwatering courses coming until all you can do is take the final sip of sticky and wander down the deserted beach to your villa.


GETTING THERE
Lizard Island Resort is located 240km north of Cairns and 27km off the coast of North Queensland. Getting there can be quite a journey but considering that its remoteness and privacy are two of its greatest benefits, the trip is worth it. Fly to Cairns, transfer by limousine to Hinterland Aviation 10 minutes away, and hop on a scheduled one-hour flight to take you directly to the resort.

Air transfers between Cairns and Lizard Island are A$510 per person return. However, Luxury Travel Magazine recommends chartering your own flight from Cairns to avoid any wait. At A$1,343 for three to four people one way it compares favourably with the scheduled service. Speak with Jill at
charters@tfaustralia.com or visit hinterlandaviation.com

BARRIER REEF EXPLORING
Some of the world’s best dive sites are accessed from Lizard Island.
Take a personal guide and head out for as long or as little as you want or simply walk off the beach to find colourful coral, giant clams, turtles, an abundance of tropical fish or even a friendly reef shark. The photos on these pages taken by Lizard Island’s resident dive instructor and marine enthusiast Louise Dixon tell the story.


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