NEW AUSTRALIAN RUSTIC LUXE
New Australian Rustic Luxe - Luxury Travel Magazine
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New Australian Rustic Luxe | |||||
| By: Margaret Merton, Issue 41 – Summer 2010 | |||||
| (Arkaba Station – South Australia, Australia) | |||||
| AUSTRALIA’S LATEST BUSH LUXURY PROPERTY ARKABA STATION IS A REMOTE WORKING SHEEP STATION AT THE FOOT OF THE FLINDERS RANGERS IN SOUTH AUSTRALIA. THE SENSE OF COMPLETE REMOTENESS THAT ENVELOPS YOU THERE IS EXTREME, WRITES MARGARET MERTON. | |||||
| There are so many reasons to make the (very) long road journey to Arkaba Station, including the awe-inspiring moment of realising that less than 24 hours earlier you were having drinks in a busy inner-city bar and wearing very high heels. For Arkaba and its surrounds could not be further away from the urban spaces that most of us live in, and this is its charm. For those who really want to get away from it all, the sense of almost complete remoteness that envelops you in this country is extreme. A five hour drive from Adelaide, Arkaba Station is the latest addition to the Wild Bush Luxury retreats, who also run the eco-lodge Bamarru Plains in the Daintree, the Sal Salis retreat at Ningaloo Reef in Western Australia and the Blue Mountains Private Safaris experience. It’s situated in the Flinders Ranges National Park (although the nearest geographical wonder is the extraordinary Wilpenna Pound, but more on that later) and it’s the quintessential outback landscape: a huge domed sky, endlessly blue, marked only by the dirty orange smudges of willy willies, moving in their random trajectories across the flat plains. It’s a red earth country of colours impossible to believe until you see it with your own eyes. And it’s the country of the most cock-eyed optimists probably ever to walk the earth, as the early settlers out here saw opportunity where it’s hard to see anything but sky and dirt and inhospitable red ranges. For Arkaba Station’s history is also its present and this is one of the reasons why it offers such a unique travel experience. To explain, first some history. It was settled in 1851 by those optimists who saw a land where they could run sheep. But it was the vision of owner Otto Bartholomaeus in 1903 that ensured Arkaba’s survival today. At a vast 60,000 acres, Bartholomaeus had the foresight to encircle the entire property with a dog fence. Before this it was almost impossible for shepherds to protect flocks from dingo attacks. For his efforts, he was awarded a perpetual lease, and Arkaba became, thanks also to its unique geography and undergound water, a thriving ecosystem that could handle up to 8000 sheep. Today, it’s still a working sheep station but only runs 3000 sheep as the new owners are determined to ensure the country returns to its natural state. For the first time visitor, it’s an opportunity for an authentic insight into a working station, as much as a relaxing break. The original homestead with its cool, deep verandahs has remained untouched and the happy squawking of hundreds of galahs every evening as they flit from the massive river gums that surround the homestead is probably the exact same soundtrack this country has heard for millennia. Inside, the main home has been gently renovated, to include generous ensuite bathrooms for all five rooms. Yes, that’s correct. There are only five rooms available along with a separate charming Coachmen’s Cottage for guests. This, hosts Sally and Pat Kent explain is what sets Arkaba apart, in terms of the experience on offer. It’s intimate. It’s quiet. There are no crowds. In other words, it’s bliss. Add to that the Wild Bush Luxury creed of “Eat well, drink well and sleep well” and your three days here will be nothing short of restorative. First, “eat well.” The meals are communal and chef Jo, who has recently moved from the Daintree’s Bamarru Plains Resort creates fabulous meals with local produce – her BBQ scotch fillet, and simple seared asparagus and zuchinni with a freshly tossed salad and foil-wrapped baked potatoes finished with home-made ice-cream was sublime. Drink well: the Wild Bush Luxury company takes some pride in its wine lists. Expect to find boldface Barossa names such as Henschke and the deliciously floral Shaw and Smith sauvignon blanc. Arkaba Station runs on an honour system and the two fridges for the guests are full of cool drinks, chilled white wines and cold water. The “sleep well” aspect is also amply addressed with state-of- the-art beds and a menu of pillows. The important point to make about Arkaba Station is that it isn’t the sort of connect-the-dots fivestar luxury some guests might expect. It’s actually much more than that. As Wild Bush Luxury’s mantra attests, they take care of the three basic needs of any guest seeking a spot of luxury. But Arkaba’s real luxury lies in what you can experience and see. Access to this remote and beautiful landscape is rare and special. Nothing brings this home more than heading out on your first day with guide Kat. Setting off in the sturdy four wheel drive with plenty of water is just the start of an amazing adventure of discovery as you traverse the rough, dirt tracks that meander around the property. Ringed by the Chase and Elder Ranges and with the walls of the Wilpenna Pound on the northernmost tip of the station, it’s a revelation just how much wildlife is thriving out here. With Kat you’ll see eagles, hawks, emus and kangaroos (three different types) resting from the midday sun under the shade of the river gums, and, if you’re lucky, a Central Bearded Dragon – a rather alarming looking creature she spotted under a rock. There are sheep, some of which are clearly runaways that have escaped the shearing season with enormous coats that fluff comically when they run. It’s a fantastic way to begin to understand the ecosystem here and to respect the way life adapts to harsh conditions. Having a glass of sauvignon blanc while watching the sun burnish the rocky walls of Wilpenna Pound (an ancient geographic site of much significance) a spectrum of golds and reds and the palest blush pinks is a rather nice way to end the day. Later that night, after one of Jo’s fabulous meals make some time for star-gazing as the sky is lit as if someone had shot a scatter gun into a velvet curtain, with more stars than is possible to imagine. We counted six shooting stars in an hour. Our wish? To come back here and explore even more of this remarkable area. | |||||
| Walking Safaris and Sleep Under The Stars | |||||
| Imagine falling asleep under the starry night and waking up to the sun colouring the Elder Ranges a bright red before your eyes. There is an exciting trekking activity on the roster at Arkaba Station, with guests walking a track through the property and sleeping in luxury swags on raised platforms in three different “camps” on the 60,000 acres. There will be a BBQ dinner provided and outdoor toilets and showers (eco-friendly ones) to complete the “rustic luxe” approach. | |||||
| Getting there | |||||
| The attraction of Arkaba Station is its remoteness, which means getting there is a little challenging. The fastest way is to take a charter flight from Adelaide airport to the town of Hawker and Arkaba Station will provide the 25km transfer from there. South Australian regional airline Sharp flies from Adelaide to Port Augusta from where Arkaba will provide the 75 minute transfer. Alternatively you can take a four and a half hour leisurely drive from central Adelaide. | |||||
| Details: | |||||
| Arkaba Station | |||||
| *Flights and transport for this story were provided by South Australian Tourism Commission | |||||
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