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Snow & Schnitzel
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By: Hilary Doling, Issue 35 – Winter 2008
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(Mt Buller, New South Wales, Australia)
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TOUCH OF AUSTRIA IN THE VICTORIAN ALPS GIVES A SKI STAY A DISTINCTLY EUROPEAN FEEL.
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There is a warm fire in the hearth and the sound of an accordion playing as we settle down to dinner; kaesespaetzle cheese pasta, followed by wiener schnitzel, then chocolate and hazelnut Salzburger nockeerl soufflé as soft as a snow drift, but distinctly more fattening. It is all so Austrian that I’d feel compelled to lever on the lederhosen, if it wasn’t for that afore mentioned fattening desert (after which leather shorts aren’t a good look) and the fact that it’s zero degrees outside.
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However despite the jovial songs of our host, Hans, and the European fare, this isn’t Austria but the Victoria Alps. The history of the Grimus family and Mt Buller have been intertwined since they put in the first mountain lifts, and Hans Grimus, his wife Lotte and the chalet-style Hotel Pension Grimus are Mt Buller legends. They are big on legends at Mt Buller; down at the village square they have a rogue’s gallery of other Mt Buller stalwarts of ski school, lifts and mountain rescue, all smiling down from a wall of pictures with tanned, weatherworn faces. Knowing the names and faces of famous locals is just one thing that contributes to the cosy village atmosphere of Mt Buller. It is this village atmosphere, as well as the more obvious connections, that make Mt Buller feel European in flavour, as well as the fact that chalets and apartments line either side of the home run, Bourke Street, with more ski in-ski out options than you find in most other Australian ski resorts.
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I’m staying at Mt Buller Chalet, positioned perfectly on the edge of the slopes. It’s the ideal option for those who want comfort but aren’t big on self catering. The chalet is part of the Grand Mercure collection and luxury-lovers can opt for one of the penthouse suites. My two-storey suite has loft views over sparkling white snow, a bedroom built into the eaves, a deep bath (essential for tired ski limbs), a stone fireplace and historic ski memorabilia on the walls. Also mounted on the wall is a giant moose head that is probably more Canadian Rockies than alpine anything and has a disconcertingly disapproving stare, as if he is absolutely sure my skiing won’t meet his discerning mountain standards.
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On the first morning I wonder if Maurice the moose might be right, as I execute an unintentional double pirouette on my way to the lift queue and nearly land flat on my face in front of my instructor who is, not surprisingly, Austrian and unimpressed by my antics. “Come, vi go!” he says without cracking a smile. But the morning and my instructor both warm up quickly: it is a beautiful blue-sky day and Mt Buller’s slopes are at their best. The resort has a good variety of gentle forgiving runs, ideal for families and first timers. There is also off-piste skiing and runs like Men’s Downhill, Powder Keg, and Funnel off the Southern slopes of the mountain for those who like more of a challenge. The on-snow café s also have a European feel.
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Lunchtime we head for Koflers Hutte at the top of Koflers run and look down on the pretty valley. An afternoon hot chocolate stop finds us at Spurts restaurant with beautiful views up the slopes to the summit. It is to the summit that we head at day’s end because Mt Buller offers some great offski activities. One of the best is the snow shoe tour with The Snowshoe Guru, who seems to know so much about the mountain he deserves his name. We hike through the snow up to the top of the mountain for sunset schnapps. The sun is a copper coin ready to drop behind the hills and the views across to Mt Stirling are spectacular. We’re not the only ones who think so: locals have brought their skidoos up here and as we wait for the sun to sink another skidoo arrives with takeaway pizza for their kids – on snow delivery, now that’s impressive.
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New to Mt Buller this season is a state of the art high speed, six-seater chair lift – the first in Australia – which will whisk you from Helicopter Flat to the top of Baldy in under four minutes. The old Abom lift and the Blue Bullet lift have been decommissioned and the removal of two old lift towers means there is much more skieable terrain on the popular Baldy beginners run. Mt Buller is an all round enjoyable experience, both on and off skis. The village is easy to get around, the locals are very friendly and there is a lot to do in walking distance of your hotel.
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“Bye Maurice,” I yell to the moose head as I close my door on my way to check out, “I’ll definitely be back” – and I swear that just before the lock clicks shut, I see him wink.
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Details:
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Mt Buller skiing and accommodation
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