THAILANDS IN THE SUN
Thailands In The Sun - Luxury Travel Magazine
 | |||||
Thailands In The Sun | |||||
| By: JJohn Borthwick, Issue 15 – Winter 2003 | |||||
| (Phuket and Koh Samui – Thailand) | |||||
| THAILAND IS RENOWNED FOR ITS SPECTACULAR ISLANDS AND LUXURY BEACH RESORTS – AND THEY DON’T COME BETTER THAN ON PHUKET AND KOH SAMUI. | |||||
| It’s a tale of two islands that starts with neither of them. From our plane, I look down on a score of other smaller islands, limestone apparitions that float on Phang-Nga Bay like dragons asleep on an emerald field. It might be a scene from the Morning of the Earth until I notice the wake of a speed boat curving between these zoomorphic snoozers. We throttle back to a reality of sorts, dropping into Phuket. Thailand’s largest island – at 540 sq km, it’s almost the size of Singapore – Phuket has blossomed in three decades from a boondock of tin quarries and tapioca farms to a honey pot for 2.8 million foreign visitors (and many more Thais) each year. Siam by the Sea. Thai Riviera. Pearl Island. Call it what you will, this enclave off the country’s south-west coast embodies much of what travellers love about Thailand – think fine resorts, seafood, forests, bargains, affable locals, fair beaches. It also has elements that one might love a little less – drenching humidity, unfettered development, and relentless street vendors and hawkers (most of which can be managed if not ignored).“Visitors don’t come here any longer just for sun, sand and Singha,” says Anupharp Thirarath, regional director of the Tourism Authority of Thailand, as we dine at the stylish Baan Rim Pa restaurant perched high on a sea-cliff near Patong. He nominates sea-canoeing, cooking classes, trekking, extraordinary diving (particularly at the offshore Similan Islands) and, of course, shopping as Phuket’s other major drawcards. There is indeed far more to this island of 400,000 inhabitants than beaches and bars. To Khun Anupharp’s list I might add Buddhist wats (some garish, some austere), waterfalls, old Phuket Town, a gibbon rehabilitation centre, Phang-Nga Bay and the inevitable elephant ride. Patong Beach on the west coast is today the epicentre of island life, overshadowing the older east coast capital of Phuket Town; for many visitors ,however, Patong’s beer-and-boutiques riot mean a look-see not a stay. Phuket’s Andaman Sea shore has almost 50km of beaches that loop between countless headlands; along this sunset shore you’ll find most of the province’s 30,000 hotel rooms, ranging from no-star, no-worries lodges to five-star-plus seraglios. A brief survey of those luxury resorts, running from north to south, starts with the architectural and oceanic drama of the JW Marriott Phuket Resort and Spa on 17km Mai Khao Beach. One of Thailand’s newer five-star resorts, and certainly one of the loveliest, this is escapology perfected. You’re far from all the madding crowds but just paces from a ruinously good treatment at the resort’s Mandara Spa. On Bang Tao Beach, the centrepiece of the 240ha Laguna Phuket development is a sprawling lake around whose shores have sprouted a championship golf course and five luxury resorts, including the Sheraton Grande Laguna Phuket and the family-friendly Dusit Laguna Resort. The lush Banyan Tree Phuket is definitely the headline act. tucked within its exuberant gardens are 121 villas that feature high, wat-style roofs; step right in and (depending on your villa) you may find your own private pool or even a spa pavilion. Le Meridien Phuket Beach Resort is cupped between forest headlands and looks out onto its own little cove, Karon Noi (aka Relax Bay). Its broad swimming pools are joyous for children while families also welcome the safe wide beach. There are plenty of sports facilities (tennis courts, dive centre, climbing wall) and this is the probably the best located luxury resort for those intent on frequent forays to Patong. Le Royal Meridien Phuket Yacht Club on the southern tip of the island sits amid a hillside cascade of brilliant red bougainvillea. Its tiered balconies overlook Hat Nai Han (a beach with agreeably few vendors) and a brood of islands. The neck and head massage that I had in the resort spa was something to dissolve for. The newest kid on the block is the Evason Phuket Resort and Spa at Rawai Beach. Bringing the signature aesthetics of the famous Soneva hideaways in the Maldives to a larger 290 room property, the just-opened Evason is already a knock-out; in addition it has some 28ha of grounds and its own offshore island. On my last night on the island, I catch a remarkable stage show called Phuket Fanta Sea, a huge, high-tech production featuring scores of dancers, magicians, musicians and 18 elephants. It’s a short air hop north-east to Koh Samui in the Gulf of Thailand. Samui is what Phuket was – and one day may be what Phuket is. Shores lined with palm trees, clear waters, a rugged, jungle interior and shophouse villages – all these you can still find within 10 minutes’ drive of Samui’s main pub-and-club strips at Chaweng or Lamai beaches. At half the length of Phuket – just 25km – Samui is more intimate, barefoot, budget. Notwithstanding this simplicity, or perhaps because of it, the island has also attracted many well-heeled foreigners as permanent residents and as villa investors. The result? The visitor can slot in on any level here, from backpackerdom to five-star luxury resorts and private rental villas. Self-driving on this uncrowded island is an eminently survivable rather than suicidal option. Rental cars are moderately priced and can get you to all the nooks and crannies of the coast and interior, such as Na Muang Waterfall, the famous 12-metre Buddha at Wat Phra Yai, the Secret Garden, and other spots on Samui’s relatively short must-do list. After all that, pull in to Big John’s restaurant at Ban Lipa Noi on the west coast for a sunset display of sherbet clouds, as contemplated over a Singha beer and spring rolls. If dinner is the next event, you might progress to one of my favourite places, the north coast fishing village of Bophut, supposedly the oldest village on Koh Samui. This hideaway of overwater cafes, a day spa, teak houses and boutique lodges maintains a rare balance of tradition and tourism. Scuba-diving among the 42 islands of Ang Thong Marine National Park; full-moon raves on Koh Phan-Gan; trawling the street stalls for bargain CDs, DVDs and fashions – these are among the most popular Samui pursuits, but retreating to luxury hasn’t been overlooked. There is a select handful of upmarket resorts (not to mention exclusive villas) that are soon to be joined by up to 10 more, including an all-villa Evason resort. Meantime, I remain a true believer in the Santiburi Dusit Resort at Mae Nam on the north coast. My beachfront villa has golden teak floors, a private open-air plunge pool and state-of-the-art audio, all tied together with that most subtle quality, restrained good taste. Restraint, sadly deserts me when I settle in at the resort’s Sala Thai restaurant for a Royal Thai feast, a degustation epic of red snapper, tom kha gai, banana flower salad and too much more, followed by ginger ice cream. The island’s first golf course, with a challenging 18-hole championship layout, is under construction at the Santiburi Samui Country Club not far from the resort. Another special Samui retreat is Le Royal Meridien at Baan Taling Ngam on the west coast. Shaded by plantation palms, it overlooks Ang Thong Marine National Park and is perfect for honeymooners. Meanwhile, diagonally across the island on the north-east coast, the luxurious cottages of Tongsai Grand Villas offer your own secluded, open-air terrace, plus one of the few private beaches on the island and the renowned cuisine at Floyd’s Beach Bistro. Two great islands, which to choose? | |||||
|
