THE OTHER INCA TRAIL
The Other Inca Trail - Luxury Travel Magazine
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The Other Inca Trail | |||||
| By: Jane O’Sullivan, Issue 46 – Autumn 11 | |||||
| (Machu Picchu, Peru) | |||||
| WITH LESS THAN 200 TOURISTS ALLOWED TO START THE TREK EACH DAY, SECURING YOUR SPOT ON THE INCA TRAIL CAN BE TRICKY. JANE O’SULLIVAN DISCOVERS THERE’S MORE THAN ONE WAY TO REACH MACHU PICCHU. | |||||
| I can’t help thinking of Pachacuti, the Inca emperor who built Machu Picchu, as a little like Howard Hughes. After all, nothing says paranoid recluse like building a sky-high eyrie and making sure the only way in is by the long and difficult path now known as the Inca Trail. Today Machu Picchu, which once included a palace, temples, homes and terraces for farming, is one of Peru’s biggest drawcards and trekking the four-day Inca Trail is extremely popular. Permit restrictions, in place to limit the number of people on the trail at any one time, can make it hard to book and it can be pricey for what’s often a fairly basic camping experience. As a result, many hikers are now choosing alternative routes to Machu Picchu, like the Salkantay Trail. On this route, unlike the Inca Trail, you can also swap the tent for four solid walls on a luxury lodge-to-lodge trek. Adventure World’s seven-day Luxury Lodge Trek begins at Soraypampa and travels along the Vilcabamba mountain range which cradles Machu Picchu, stopping off at four lodges along the way. The largest of these lodges has a bar and an outdoor hot tub. The others are smaller and have only six guest rooms but offer the same basic amenities. Most of the hike is graded moderate but is challenging in parts due to rocky terrain and steep climbs. It is not considered a novice hike and the most difficult day involves climbing to a pass at 4,638 metres above sea level. The scenery on this third day – when hikers cross the Salkantay pass – is perhaps the most dramatic. The trail winds up out of the Rio Blanco valley before circling the Humantay Peak, offering views in all directions of the snow-capped Vilcabamba mountain range. Condors, an amazing sight because of their three-metre-plus wingspan, have also been spotted in this area. The Luxury Lodge Trek also takes in Inca ruins near Limatambo and Llactapapa, as well as a glacial lake where the brave can take a (presumably very quick) dip. The final leg to Machu Picchu is done by rail to Aguas Calientes followed by a 30-minute bus trip up to the ruins. This is perhaps the only real drawback to the Salktantay Trail. Hikers on the Inca Trail can watch the sun rise over Machu Picchu from a nearby pass, and then walk into the ruins before the crowds arrive (or at least most of them, these days exploring Machu Picchu in complete solitude is wishful thinking). Arriving by bus does mean missing this early start. However, hikers on the Luxury Lodge Trek still have plenty of time to explore. A two-hour guided tour is provided, after which walkers have an additional four hours to wander on their own. There is also the option to book an extra day at additional expense. In total, the trek is 62 km, though with the various car, rail and bus transfers it covers over 300 km. Group sizes on the Luxury Lodge Trek are about standard and average 10 people per trip, with one bi-lingual guide provided for every seven guests. When you’re planning your itinerary, it’s advisable to factor in a couple of days in Cusco before your trek. It’s tempting to skip this acclimatisation time but the combination of altitude and exercise can be punishing if you don’t allow your body to adjust. For any multi-day trek in Peru, and particularly for camping treks, it’s also worth asking your chosen tour operator a few questions about conditions for staff and porters before you commit. I know of at least one unhappy camper who, after gratefully parting with extra money for a porter, saw his pack handed over to an eight-year-old girl to shoulder. Ask what kind of accommodation porters are given, what the maximum weight is that they have to carry, and whether they are provided with things like shoes and sleeping bags. | |||||
| Cost | |||||
| From A$2,858 per person. | |||||
| Includes Pick up and drop off to Cusco, six nights lodging (five nights Mountain Lodges of Peru, one night in a four star hotel in Aguas Calientes), all meals, guided visit to Machu Picchu. | |||||
| Excludes | |||||
| US$50 (about A$49) Salkantay Trail entrance fee, tips for guides and porters, Internet access at the lodges, alcoholic beverages, clothing and equipment. | |||||
| When To Go | |||||
| The dry season is from April to October with daytime temperatures around 20-25 degrees Celcius. But no matter what time of year you go, it’s worth investing in rain gear. The trek passes through 12 different eco-zones and weather can be changeable. | |||||
| Getting There | |||||
| Lan Chile flies from Sydney to Santiago via Auckland daily. Business fares from A$12,244 return and economy from A$2,501. Fly to Cusco via Lima, Peru. with premium economy fares from A$1,591 return and economy from A$581. lan.com | |||||
| How To Book | |||||
| To book this Adventure World holiday phone 1300 295 161 or visit luxuryadventures.com.au | |||||
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