In Uluwatu, this intimate hillside stay pairs eclectic private-pool villas with polished service, inventive dining and a wine program rarely found in Bali
Why stay here
This is Bali done differently. Forget the chain hotels, crowded pools and tour groups. Instead, Hidden Hills Villas is small, discreet, calm and romantic. It’s a marriage of eclectic design, top-notch service, a world-class wine cellar and innovative and delicious food. This family-owned collection of 14 serene, standalone pool villas (plus seven studio villas) nestles into a hillside in Uluwatu, commanding fabulous views over the Indian Ocean and to distant volcanos. The open-air Hidden Gem Restaurant and Wine Lounge serves a staggering 54 wines by the glass – unheard of in Bali and rare anywhere – so guests can sip fabulous drops while dining on magical dishes created by Swiss chef Enzo.
The standalone villas have manicured lawns, frangipani trees, bougainvillea hedges and tempting private pools. Each has been individually designed, based on a tropical vibe, but done with real style rather than settling for tacky pastiches. Villa Bahamas, for example, has deliciously cool Caribbean motifs, while Villa St Tropez has a striking colour wall inhabited by flamingos and parrots. The peaceful spa inhabits its own smaller villa called Joglo.
Villa Seychelles | Hidden Hills Villas, Uluwatu
In the suite
I stay in two-bedroom Villa Seychelles. Its interior is more subtle than some of the other villas: white-painted wood contrasting with black furniture. A wall of glass at the front of the villa allows guests – from every room, bed and chair – to gaze out on the multicoloured tropical view beyond: the turquoise pool, the bougainvillea hedge and way, way out over the ocean.
Each of the two large bedrooms leads into a central lounge with sofa, dining table and kitchenette, plus a rattan armchair and ottoman; when combined they create the perfect daybed. There are two open-air bathrooms, each of which has a big bathtub; the tub on the eastern side is placed to maximise the ocean view. The star of the show is the pool, which is lined with turquoise tiles and always seems to be just the right temperature. Taking the seven steps from the rattan daybed to the pool soon becomes my Hidden Hills daily commute.
Hidden Gem Spa | Hidden Hills Villas, Uluwatu
Villa Bali | Hidden Hills Villas, Uluwatu
Dining
At the heart of the Hidden Hills property is Hidden Gem Restaurant & Wine Lounge. Each of the 54 wines by the glass is hand-picked by owner Max Loong[MB1], a certified sommelier. The staff use ingenious Coravin devices, which pierce the cork and draw the wine out through a very small tube, therefore allowing the cork to remain in place and, hence, preserving the wine for weeks. This is a revelation for Bali, where wines by the glass are historically quite ordinary and you have to buy an entire bottle to get anything decent.
On the evening I dine there, the Balinese staff are on the money with their recommendations. I would never have thought of pairing delicate tuna tartare with an Alta Mora red, grown on the baking hot slopes of Sicily’s Mount Etna volcano, but it is a match made in heaven. They also suggest a 2018 Eric Guigal (white) Hermitage that pairs perfectly with grilled mahi-mahi and Sumatran balado butter, and a Hugel Gewürztraminer that complements the mouthwatering three-coloured tacos.
Guests can soon sign up for Hidden Gem’s wine knowledge and tasting classes, while regular Bali-goers might like to join the restaurant’s wine club, which offers curated bottles and invites to tastings and events.
Breakfast is served at Hidden Gem, too, and there are plenty of tables poolside. It might sound odd to praise the humble mushroom but chef Enzo does something to mine that turns breakfast into something memorable.
The standalone villas have manicured lawns, frangipani trees, bougainvillea hedges and tempting private pools.
Owner Max and his team have gotten the vibe of Hidden Hills Villas just right and, as regular luxe hotel guests know, that’s no mean feat. It’s especially obvious at Hidden Gem, which is half California coast house and half Balinese private pool villa. The marriage of styles works swimmingly. Max has spent a lot of time curating the playlists too. Smooth, subtle jazz at breakfast (London’s Magpie Jazz Trio was playing when I was there – the very best way to start the day) and more of a beat in the afternoons and evenings.
Also, the charming, non-intrusive handwritten notes that appear in my villa, not just on arrival but throughout my stay, make me feel genuinely valued and appreciated.
Hidden Gem Spa | Hidden Hills Villas, Uluwatu
If you want to upgrade
The three-bed Villa Bahamas showcases cool Caribbean-vibe décor including vintage, handmade wallpaper. At the top of the hill (almost) is the five-bedroom, five-bathroom 328-metre-squared Villa Raja (903m2 if you include all external features and gardens). It includes a 15-metre infinity lap pool, a day/dining pavilion, two living rooms, private VIP entrance, home cinema, koi carp pond and 270-degree sunset ocean views.
Hotel notes
Hidden Hills Villas
Villa Seychelles
Size: 447 m2 (villa, pool and gardens)
Price per night: A$622 (US$433) in January (+ 21% tax), A$1,040 (US$730) in July (+ 21% tax).
