Ski, sip, soak, repeat in Niseko at this ultra-luxurious resort

At northern Japan’s Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, every whim is taken care of, leaving you free to simply enjoy the perfect powder, onsens and impressive dining

Chef Hiroshi delicately moves his fingers as he slices deep-red tuna at the sushi bar, his forehead creased in deep concentration. I watch intently, and only when he finishes does he look up and smile. “For this course, you will try three kinds of sashimi – scallop, amberjack and tuna – alongside spicy radish and ponzu sauce,” he says. Our waiter picks up the individual portions and glides to each diner at the bar, setting the dishes carefully in front of us.

Sushi Nagi at Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, is booked out most nights, and with only eight seats at the counter, it’s easy to understand why. The omakase-style dining experience is an ultra-personalised one, and chef Hiroshi selects his ingredients based on seasonality, locality and freshness.

Artistry is another essential aspect of omakase dining, and at Sushi Nagi, it quickly becomes clear that chef Hiroshi is a master when it comes to both presentation and balancing flavours. The dishes emerge looking like edible works of art. And although we’re told to consume as soon as each plate is in front of us, it’s hard not to admire the craftsmanship for a little while. Only three dishes into the multi-course, predominantly sashimi menu, I can already confidently say I’m savouring the best raw fish I’ve ever had.

Reset & refresh

A mountainous town on Hokkaido, Japan’s most northerly main island, the ski resort of Niseko is a mecca for snow enthusiasts around the world. It attracts experienced skiers and boarders, families seeking memorable adventures, and luxury travellers looking for an upscale experience.

Australians may well love Niseko – indeed the whole of Japan – more than most right now, given the strength of the dollar against the yen and given its proximity to the Land Down Under. According to the Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO), the number of Australians who visited Japan in 2023 came close to matching levels seen in 2019, reaching 98.6 per cent of pre-pandemic visitation numbers. This is especially notable considering the country only fully opened to tourists in October 2022 and scrapped proof of vaccinations in April 2023.

I’ve been to Niseko in summer, but never when there’s snow about. It’s a completely different experience now, with former flower fields blanketed in ice, and the once lush, green mountains draped in white winter coats.

Rising to 1,308 meters, the snow-capped Mount Niseko Annupuri is home to four interlinked resorts, collectively offering an expansive 890 hectares of skiable terrain. I’m here with a small group, and mountain life is nothing short of phenomenal. We split up into twos each morning and head off on adventures with the help of a guide extraordinaire, and I quickly get used to having what feels like a personal ski chaperone. I don’t have to check maps, figure out the nearest cafe serving hot chocolate or worry about navigating the slopes — I can simply focus on the joy of carving through perfect powder, one run at a time.  That said, the mountain trail maps are easy to follow, the wi-fi across the resort works well and lunch spots are easy to find.

Most days we end up refueling at Niseko-yo – a new entertainment precinct within Niskeo Village, easy to reach from the Ritz-Carlton Reserve. Niseko-yo opened in the 2023/24 ski season to provide holidaymakers with more shopping, nightlife, and wining and dining options, and it’s a welcome addition to our itinerary. I try umami-rich ramen, brimfull with bouncy noodles at Gogyo powered by Ippudo restaurant one night; eat what feels like half my body weight in delicious Roman-style pizza at Baby Crosta at lunch another day; and sample an imaginative fusion of Italian and Japanese at Moka. The chef’s special, uni cream spaghetti capped with delicate pieces of fresh sea urchin is mouthwateringly good.

There are evenings out spent sipping cocktails, too. Daytime Chuya teahouse transforms into a bar come nightfall, a place where passionate cocktail masters are eager to chat about their inventive creations. Meanwhile, a night out at Mandala Club serves as a reminder that to feel refreshed, I need to clock off earlier than Cinderella.

A home away from home

Each of the 50 rooms and suites at Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, boasts a bathroom inspired by the local onsen tradition, with the star feature being the oversized soaking tub. Crafted in a square shape and made from stone reminiscent of traditional bathing houses, it also comes with a wooden bucket and stool that adds to the truly authentic feel of the space.

In 2023, these luxurious bathrooms earned a spot on Travel + Leisure’s list of the ‘20 Most Beautiful Hotel Bathrooms in the World’, and I make sure I use my private tub every night, even twice a day when time allows. A large window offering natural light and mountain views keeps me there for hours… and when I do finally get out, rinsing off in the adjoining rain shower completes the pampering experience.

“It’s easy to lose track of time in this spot, drinking champagne, hot chocolate and coffee… All the while, through the windows, snowflakes dance like tiny ballerinas twirling on a stage of pure white.”

There are other ways to indulge at Higashiyama Niseko Village, too: like enjoying a drink at Ume Lounge, located in the most impressive hotel lobby I’ve ever seen. With expansive windows framing Mount Yotei, it’s the perfect place to relax and take in the natural beauty of Niseko.

The fireplace serves as the centrepiece of the space, and there’s a wall-mounted library that creates a warm, inviting atmosphere. It’s easy to lose track of time in this spot, drinking champagne, hot chocolate and coffee (although not all at once). Sometimes I snack on complimentary cookies; other times I savour heartier snacks, like the afternoon sliders and wedges served in a wooden bento-style box. All the while, through the windows, snowflakes dance like tiny ballerinas twirling on a stage of pure white.

Crème de la crème

There are only seven Ritz-Carlton Reserve properties in the world, and these are the crown jewels of Marriott’s extensive hotel portfolio. Each of these hotels is located in a stunning landscape away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. And within the Ritz-Carlton Reserve brand, these destinations promise intimate experiences centred around authentic human connections. They are designed to provide an unparalleled sense of place and personalised luxury.

I’ve just experienced all of this – and more – at Higashiyama Niseko Village. My only question is, which Ritz-Carlton Reserve haven next?

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Hotel Notes

The luxury five-star Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, has 50 tastefully furnished rooms and suites, each with stunning views of Mount Yotei or Niseko Annupuri. Winter season prices per night for a Yotei Reserve (king or twin) are priced at ¥175,000 (approximately AUD $1,790), while Yotei Suites (one bedroom) are priced at ¥291,250 (approximately AUD 2,975). See ritzcarlton.com and ytlhotels.com.

All Nippon Airways (ANA) flies from Sydney to Tokyo twice daily, with the evening departure providing a seamless onward flight to Sapporo. The seasonal service from Perth to Sapporo via Tokyo will recommence three times a week from 28 October 2024. See ana.co.jp.

Good to know

Niseko Village offers a wide range of groomed runs suited to all levels of skiers and boarders. Beyond the slopes, guests can enjoy adventurous snowshoeing trails, snowmobile tours, and a variety of other unique winter activities.

While you’re here

Onsen, onsen, and onsen! After a day on the slopes, immerse yourself in the rejuvenating waters of Niseko’s natural hot springs. Many of these luxurious onsens are located within the top hotels, such as Higashiyama Niseko Village, Ritz-Carlton Reserve, Hinode Hills Niseko Village, The Green Leaf Niseko Village and Hilton Niseko Village, offering exclusive access to guests. Public onsens like Yukichichibu and Goshiki Onsen provide authentic experiences with breathtaking mountain views.