Still the Riviera’s grandest address: Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo

At the heart of Monte-Carlo, Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo continues to set the tone for Côte d’Azur glamour – pairing historic grandeur with Michelin-starred dining and harbour-view rooms

Ferraris, Rolls-Royces and Porsches are displayed like a moveable outdoor sculpture garden when we arrive at Monte-Carlo’s lavish Belle Époque Hotel de Paris. A uniformed doorman whisks us into the oh-so-grand marble lobby, its intricately carved ceiling, stained-glass dome and magnificent central flower arrangement evoking an atmosphere of elegance and opulence.

Ever since its launch in 1864 on the Place du Casino in the beating heart of Monaco, the Hôtel de Paris has welcomed royals, politicians and glitterati. Although we are none of the above, we savour the pleasures of staying at this legendary lodging – with two Michelin-starred restaurants and two wellness centres – just steps away from the iconic Casino de Monte-Carlo and Opéra de Monte-Carlo. This opulent triumvirate – hotel, opera house, casino – was the vision of French entrepreneur, François Blanc, founder of the Société des Bains de Mer and dubbed ‘the Magician of Monte-Carlo’ who, with the blessing of Charles III (the king of Monaco at the time) transformed the tiny principality into the most glamorous destination on the Côte d’Azur.

More than 150 years later – and after a recent US$280 million, four-year renovation – the hotel has not just been restored to its halcyon days but is, arguably, even better with a luminescence that embodies contemporary luxury anchored by its original esprit.

Just because

All guests have preferential rates at the private Monte-Carlo Country Club and Monte-Carlo Golf Club as well as free access to the Monte-Carlo Casino. Don’t forget to rub the knee of the bronze horse ridden by Louis XIV in the hotel lobby for good luck.

Harbour light and quiet luxury

Our 43 square-metre Exclusive Room, complete with balcony and harbour view, has herringbone oak floors and sleek furniture. Its palette is predominantly white with bronze and gold accents, including a marbled mirrored bedhead. Minimalist contemporary art and Murano glass chandeliers and lamps add a subtle flourish. The large white marble bathroom, which is generously stocked with Guerlain toiletries, has a tub and roomy shower while a spacious dressing room and a Japanese-style toilet are in separate rooms off the hallway.

There are now 206 large rooms and suites, many with balconies. I spend a very pleasurable few hours relaxing on our patio with its view of the mega-yacht-dotted harbour and the Prince’s Palace in the distance.

A stage for Michelin stars

Central to the hotel’s new vision and flooding the main lobby with light is Le Patio, a vast inner courtyard open to the sky and featuring soaring palm trees, orchids and climbing plants. It’s here that star patisserie chef Cédric Grolet has just opened a tearoom and boutique.

We savour Monte-Carlo cocktails while listening to a swinging jazz band at the sultry, wood-panelled Le Bar Americain before a lavish dinner in the majestic three-Michelin-starred Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse restaurant, whose historic frescoes and wall-hangings are now fully restored. This is the spot to enjoy the finest haute Mediterranean cuisine in town with selections from the hotel’s underground wine cellars, which store more than 350,000 bottles.

The sea-themed, one Michelin-starred Le Grill, atop the 8th-floor Rotunda, offers a gob-smacking panorama of this glamorous stretch of the Mediterranean; its roof can even be magically opened to the stars in balmy weather.

We indulge in a luxurious breakfast of fresh fruits, exquisite pastries, smoked salmon, charcuterie, and cheeses plus eggs cooked to order on the new terrace of the sophisticated ground-floor Em Sherif Monte-Carlo. In the evenings, it transforms into a cutting-edge Lebanese restaurant highlighting the finest produce from the Med.

Ever since its launch in 1864 on the Place du Casino in the beating heart of Monaco, the Hôtel de Paris has welcomed royals, politicians and glitterati.

Riviera rituals

Wellness and fitness are taken seriously at the Hôtel de Paris. After a light seafood lunch on the terrace of the uber healthy L’Hirondelle restaurant, we enjoy soothing massages at Thermes Marins Monte-Carlobefore swimming in the elliptical indoor pool. For those in the know, Thermes Marins is also the go-to centre for anti-ageing and slimming treatments.

Hôtel de Paris’ rooftop Wellness Sky Club – with its heated outdoor pool, bar, lounge area, sauna, hammam and fitness room (all with magnificent views) – is exclusive to hotel guests, who can also use the private Monte-Carlo Beach Club with its Olympic seawater pool and private beach with cabanas.

As for the upgrades, you can’t do better than the serene gold, cream and grey 983 square-metre, two story, two-bedroom Princess Grace Suite, with its custom furniture, expansive terraces, pool, jacuzzi, sauna and study lined with some of the Princesses favourite books. There are even personal photos and some of her own artworks.

Hotel notes

The starting rate in low season for an Exclusive Harbour View Room with balcony at the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo is AU$2,400. www.visitmonaco.com, montecarlosbm.com