Gin on the river, rhinos on the road: Life at Marataba Safari Lodge

Sitting in the shadow of South Africa’s Waterberg mountains – one of the last great savannah biospheres on earth – is Marataba Safari Lodge. Here days move between glass-fronted glamping tents and open safari vehicles, with hippos drifting past on the Matlabas River and big cats in the long grass after dark

I’m sipping on a gin and tonic – one of many South African gins with which I become quite enamoured – and snacking on platters overflowing with goodies. But my attention is not just on the gourmet catering. Meerkat-like, I am taking in the scenery. The Matlabas River gurgles along serenely, and the Waterberg mountains are captivating in the afternoon light. My reverent moment for the landscape is shattered when I hear someone yell, ‘Hippos!” Beverage forgotten, I scuttle to the side of the boat and watch as the hippo shows how wide he or she can open his mouth – very wide as it turns out, before giving a honking snort and disappearing, leaving nothing but bubbles behind.

Moseying down the river on board Marataba Safari Lodge’s flatbottomed Miss Mara, we see many hippos, some giraffes and myriad birds including an African Fish Eagle perched sentry-like on a tree branch. It feels like we are in a documentary, as the sun sinks low, painting the mountains in spectacular orange hues. With Miss Mara put to bed at the jetty, we drive through the gloom, startling nightjar birds who fly off the road in front of the vehicle missing certain death by a feather. We also spot a leopard, give way to some rhinos having a convo in the middle of the road, then talk about all of our animal encounters over a delicious dinner on the manicured lawn.

This is safari, Marataba style.

Jewel of the Waterberg

Marataba Safari Lodge is roughly a four-hour drive from Johannesburg and sits within a privately managed section of the 23,000-hectare Marakele National Park. It is also part of the UNESCO-recognised Waterberg Biosphere, the only savannah biosphere in the world. Our transfer, organised through Adventure World, drops us off at the gate, where we switch to open safari vehicles driven by the driver/guide we will have for our entire stay. Ours is the knowledgeable Caitlin Dace, who has encyclopaedic knowledge of all the creatures great and small that we see over the coming days.

The Lodge is impressive, with a sprawling architecturally striking curved building that features several areas in which to sit and chill, read or dine. The focus is on the lawn area with its spectacular Camel Thorn tree, with the alluring mountains beyond. Animals do stroll through the lawn area – we spot impalas grazing and vervet monkeys foraging in the fringing trees. The Wallow Bar is on the other side and services the decent-sized pool, and let’s just say plenty of cocktails are enjoyed both in the water and in deckchairs by the pool.

We are quickly into the rhythm of life at the Lodge … up early for a game drive, back for a huge breakfast either under the Camel Thorn tree or on the deck, a lingering lunch before a nap or lazing by the pool, then off for the evening game drive followed by a sensational dinner. Safari life is sweet.

Under the canvas

Marataba Safari Lodge has 15 magnificent glamping tents – including four family tents – with a perfect blend of stone and canvas. The separate bathroom is large, featuring beautiful South African TheraNAKA amenities, plenty of storage space, robes, slippers and lovely touches like hydrolytes to help combat dehydration. The minibar is well stocked with spirits, wine and soft drink, and there are home made cookies to snack on. They also provide a hot water bottle and extra blankets should you need them. The considerate owners have thought of everything.

The king-size bed gives views out to the trees, where you might see vervet monkeys or baboons hanging out, and adjacent to the bedroom area there’s a stone bathtub that shares the views. On the deck, an outdoor shower is tucked into a corner, meaning the monkeys might see you but no-one else will. It is advisable to keep the door latched, as you might find some uninvited primates helping themselves to those aforementioned cookies if you don’t.

The culinary offerings are exceptional, with every meal at the lodge memorable. We dine under the Camel Thorn tree or on the deck, with a Boma dinner out the front of the Lodge one evening, and a bush dinner under the stars on another special night. The sun had not quite set when we arrived and we spotted a rhino happily munching not that far away from us. Another pinch me moment in a place where there are many.

Animal magic

As morning safari drives mean getting up before the sun, this necessitates a decent caffeine hit, something that the Lodge’s café does well.  Caitlin adds a splash of Amarula to our coffees of choice, an inspired idea. You can even have it in a takeaway cup but I don’t recommend it, as you will end up wearing it.

Over the six games drives we do during our stay, we see so many animals, from tiny brightly coloured birds like the lilac-breasted roller and the crimson-breasted shrike, to a stumpy, innocent looking snake that turned out to be a deadly puff adder. We watch a pride of lions sleeping, which I decide to call a ‘cuddle’, as they as they are so close together there are paws in faces and tails tickling noses. A cheetah grabs our attention with her long, lean body and expressive tear-drop face, and we see many elephants, including babies. Giraffes always command attention with their fragility and beautiful patterns, and while watching a grazing zebra, I spy a tiny foal resting in the shade between her four legs.

We watch a pride of lions sleeping, which I decide to call a ‘cuddle’, as they as they are so close together there are paws in faces and tails tickling noses.

We bump and grind on teeth-shaking tracks and stop whenever Caitlin spots something. We look at rhino poo, marvel at the size of a lion’s footprint in the sand, wait patiently for a jackal to get off the track, and count 40 baboons in a tree that resembles a baboon apartment block. Cape Buffalo snort and stamp while we watch, skittish impala are irresistible with their toothpick legs and the M on their backsides which gives them the nickname of the McDonalds of the animal world. Warthogs are insanely cute as they trot through the grass with their ‘follow-me’ tails ramrod straight, and we see many southern white rhinos calmly bulldozing their way through their never-ending graze buffet.

With their horns worth more than gold on the black market, it is good to know that Marataba has an excellent control centre to help prevent poaching and to monitor them through the use of GPS collars and ear notching tags. They also collar some cheetahs, as they are endangered and it helps keep track of them. There is a Rhino Conservation Experience where guests can join the vets and rangers to change a collar or check an animal. It is only offered from April-May to September-October when the temperature is cooler. It is costly, as the GPS collars are expensive as are the helicopters needed to reach the location, but it would be an unforgettable experience, and being hands-on in the battle for rhino conservation is so rewarding.

There are other ways you can help too, through Adventure World’s commitment to Travel With Purpose. Marataba Safari Lodges supports the Heuningvlei Primary School and the Itsoseng Community Creche through the Pack For A Purpose program. Check what is needed before you leave home – think school supplies, clothes, first aid products and so on – and your donation will be passed on to a grateful community.

Everything about a stay at Marataba is heartwarming. The mesmerising scenery, the wildlife sightings, the enthusiasm and passion of the field guides, and the warmth and genuine friendliness of the staff. The delightful Caitlin, the smiling faces of KB and Effie in the lounge and the beaming Ndzhaka, who was at the helm of the Miss Mara. Her smile was almost as wide as ours when we were watching hippos doing hippo things.

Almost.

Journey Notes

Only 3.5-4 hours’ drive from Johannesburg and 45 minutes by private air charter with Federal Airlines. fedair.com  

Marataba is part of the MORE Collection, with other safari lodges in the Sabi Sands and Kruger as well as the award-winning Cape Cadogan Boutique Hotel in Cape Town.

Marataba Safari Lodges has three other accommodation options, including Mountain Lodge which is adults only, the stunning Marataba Residence which is on the river and can sleep eight adults and two children, and the two-story Thabametsi Treehouse, where a family of four can sleep under the stars in the wild and in luxury.

October to March is hot (32C), while from April to September expect cooler mornings and pleasant days (25C).

Adventure World has excellent self-drive itineraries in South Africa and are Africa specialists. adventureworld.com. Find out more about South African safaris at southafrica.net.