Mondrian Bordeaux Les Carmes: Philippe Starck’s design-led hotel in the heart of wine country

Set within a reimagined 19th-century wine cellar, Mondrian Bordeaux Les Carmes blends Neo-Gothic heritage with Philippe Starck’s contemporary vision, placing Japanese fine dining, spa indulgence and château tastings at the centre of Bordeaux’s evolving cultural scene

The first surprise is Mondrian Bordeaux les Carmes’ lobby, which is set discreetly to one side of the building’s Neo Gothic facade, like a members’ club for those in the know. I immediately feel enveloped in the warm tones of its tan leather armchairs, limestone walls, and wood-accented ceilings. Illuminated cases of wine bottles from sister property Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion line the walls.

The entire hotel is a clever modern construction of concrete, wood, glass, and chunky ochre brick columns behind the original façade. This bold design perfectly embodies the Mondrian ethos of celebrating innovation and creativity in the heart of some of the world’s most exciting places. In this case, it’s the richly layered wine culture of France’s famed wine region, Bordeaux, which also just happens to be the largest UNESCO heritage-listed urban area in the world.

In fact, the hotel’s locale on the edge of classic and once-gritty Bordeaux speaks volumes. On one side is the historic Chartrons wine merchants’ quarter, lined with neo-Classical limestone buildings along the Garonne River. On the other is the Bassins à Flot, Bordeaux’s former maritime district, which is now a vibrant cultural hub anchored by the soaring Cité du Vin interactive wine museum and the Bassins des Lumières, a vast digital art centre set inside a former German U-boat station.

In another nod to doing things differently, Mondrian Bordeaux Les Carmes invited Japanese fusion chef, Masaharu Morimoto, to not only open his first European establishment here but also placed Morimoto Bordeaux’s expansive ground-floor space at the very heart of the hotel. 

Comprised of cleverly designed dining and reclining alcoves, tall bar tables and a wrap-around sushi bar, it’s a buzzy gathering spot for both hotel guests and in-the-know locals. An eclectic array of earthy ceramics, statement lighting and black and white Japanese wood-block prints add drama. Floor-to-ceiling glass doors open onto a tree-shaded terrace with stone tables surrounded by rattan armchairs, which are overlooked by vine-draped terraces and glass-facades.

Cocooned rooms with terrace drama

The same warm tones and textures from the lobby are found in the 97 rooms and suites, which offer a cocoon-like ambiance. We’re staying in a spacious 32-metre Premier King room, which is blissfully quiet and romantic. A limestone bathroom with a spacious glassed-in shower and separate toilet opens off the wood-floored entrance hallway, which also has a roomy closet and mini-bar stocked with a Lavazza coffee machine and thoughtfully curated snacks and drinks, including the house wine.

I love everything about the bedroom, which we enter through an arched doorway. Its pillow-topped king bed is in the centre of the room on an earth-toned patterned rug. A full-length arched mirror is set in panelled walls that turn out to be crafted from concrete. At the foot of the bed is a tan leather couch and leather chair and stool surrounding a stone table, upon which is a selection of Bordeaux’s famed rum and vanilla canelé pastries and fresh fruit. A bespoke standard lamp, with a selection of French paperbacks, sits beside another armchair and the entire space is bathed in a golden hue from small lampshades dotted around the room.

The upgrade

If you want to upgrade, there’s the Mondrian Terrace Suite with its mirrored salon complete with hand-crafted furnishings and an ensuite bathroom with soaking tub. Its piece de resistance, however, is a 50-metre terrace decked out in day beds, couches and tables perfect for all-day lounging.

Morimoto at the heart of the house

Morimoto’s sultry bar is renowned for its sakes and Japanese whiskies as well as inventive cocktails. I savour an inspired pisco with melon cordial, Amaro Montenegro, gentian, lemon juice and egg white while my husband delves into the wine list of 10,000 bottles from the hotel’s enormous cellar.

For dinner, we choose a selection of nigiri and sushi rolls before enjoying some of chef Morimoto’s signature Japanese fusion dishes. Highlights include the spicy oven-roasted Angry Chicken and fried Iberian pork loin Tonkatsu.

The breakfast spread is lavish with champagne or fresh-pressed juices that go down a treat with an expansive selection of baked goods from chocolatines (the name for pain au chocolat in Bordeaux) to crepes, a wide array of fresh fruits, smoked salmon, cheeses and charcuterie as well as eggs cooked to order.

This bold design perfectly embodies the Mondrian ethos of celebrating innovation and creativity in the heart of some of the world’s most exciting places.

Château tastings and a light-filled spa

The hotel concierge arranges for us to visit Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion, which is the only Bordeaux wine chateau within the city limits. Here, too, Philippe Starck has worked his magic, designing a modern winery like the prow of a ship resting on the bed of the River Peugue. We taste the chateau’s red wine blends from its top-floor tasting room with panoramic views across the vineyards.

After a little too much wine the night before, I spend the next day in the spa, enjoying a sublime massage with the vegan cosmetic brand Codage and doing a full tour of the high-performance machines in the gym. Then it is all about relaxing in the hammam, infrared sauna and 45 square-metre heated indoor pool, which is suffused with light from the adjacent courtyard.

Hotel Notes

Rooms at Mondrian Bordeaux les Carmes prices start from around AU$535 per night. mondrianhotels.com/bordeaux-les-carmes