Stillness in Sidemen: Bali’s new Ubud, as it once was

In Bali’s quietly beautiful Sidemen Valley, an adults-only, sustainable retreat offers a slower rhythm of life, shaped by rice terraces, ritual and daily village life

High above the raging Telaga Waja River, emerald rice terraces stretch as far as the eye can see, Mount Agung rising above the mist-shrouded valley. Slender women ride side-saddle on the back of motorbikes to the temple; others balancing baskets on their heads walk gracefully beside the road. Languid cats sun themselves in front of warungs.  

I’m at Samanvaya Sidemen, an adults-only sustainable resort located at the very heart of Bali’s bucolic and blissfully undeveloped Sidemen Valley. It’s here, in the island’s mostly untouched east, that Bali reveals itself as it once was – shaped by rituals, festivals and ancient culture. Here, breathing slows, and the mind settles.

It’s no wonder Sidemen is being dubbed the new Ubud – that is, Ubud as it once was, before popularity reshaped the town.

A place for real Bali seekers

Founded by New Zealand couple Tracey and Rob Rackliff in 2017, Samanvaya Sidemen is a place where guests cannot help but slow down and fall in step with the region’s traditional way of life. “There’s a profound sense of peace here, a rhythm of life that feels both grounded and timeless,” Tracey says.

The couple first discovered the Sidemen Valley while exploring beyond Bali’s usual tourist hotspots. When they discovered its cascading rice terraces, winding rivers and dramatic Mount Agung backdrop, they were immediately hooked and set about creating an authentic Balinese sanctuary for those seeking luxury with a strong sense of place. 

Handcrafted design meets immersive tranquility

The property features 28 boutique rooms and villas (a further two are being renovated) that spill across the hillside, capturing bucolic views. My home for a few precious days is one of ten swish new wellness riverside villas, built from locally sourced materials. A short downward stroll from the striking Ananda Spa and Bathhouse reveals spectacular mountain and swirling river vistas at every turn.

18 original rooms, divided by Raya Tebola, are set on the road’s high side, offering dreamy rice terrace panoramas. The newly built Sahaja restaurant (one of three dining options), the new villas and bathhouse and spa are found on the lower side.

The 110-square-metre Sari Wellness Villas feature traditional Indonesian stone, rich wood finishes, five-metre pools, an indoor spa bath, and even an in-room projector. The Mulia Wellness Villas are almost identical but come with the added luxury of alfresco stone baths and uninterrupted river views.

Days unravel slowly

On my first morning I wake to bird song over the rice paddies, and throw open the curtains to reveal a cloud-swathed mountain range. A soundtrack of frogs, geckos and chirping birds plays on repeat as swallows swoop and dive and enormous butterflies flit by. I roll out of the king size bed into the private pool, revelling in the extraordinary setting.

I start the day at Sahaja in a striking Javanese joglo overlooking the valley. Warm, attentive staff serve artfully prepared dishes like fluffy banana pancakes, nasi goreng and coconut chia. After wafting back to my villa, I join a rice field tour and then jump on the back of a scooter with a guide to Gembleng Waterfall. A refreshing dip in natural rock pools (the best is found at the top) is my reward of a steep and sweaty climb to the summit.

Back at Samanvaya, I order a fresh coconut and flop by one of the two infinity pools. Sipping sundowners (the spiced ginger mule and basil pepper snap are my pick) on the terrace at Sahaja is the ideal way to end the day.

There’s a profound sense of peace here, a rhythm of life that feels both grounded and timeless…

Wellness by chance

While not positioned as a health retreat, Samanvaya’s slower rhythm is contagious, and you can’t help but feel better for it. Meals are a ritual in themselves, whether it’s a nourishing wellness board, sesame tuna with tom yum noodles or bumbu fried rice with sambal matah.

Guests move at their own pace, and days lend themselves to holistic pursuits – like curling up with a book in an inviting nook or watching the sun rise over Mount Agung from their private pool. Balinese-inspired treatments are designed to restore balance to body and mind, from the warmth of herbal steam and sauna to soaks in therapeutic baths ranging from eight to 40 degrees. Traditional therapies, rose quartz facials and massage treatments take place in serene treatment rooms, while a self-guided hammam sud and mud ritual offers a quieter alternative. A fully equipped gym and open-air yoga shala complete the wellness offering at Samanvaya.

Sideman’s slow growth

Thankfully, Sideman Valley’s tourism growth seems to be a lot slower than Ubud’s was. I hope this authentic slice of Bali remains for many years to come – and that this feeling isn’t simply wishful thinking.

“Mount Agung towers over the valley, reminding us of the power and beauty of this place,” Tracey says.

It also reminds me why I first became enamoured with Bali many moons ago – and why I fall in love with it all over again.

Hotel notes

Sari and Mulia Wellness Villas start from US$690 plus taxes per night. Add on $40 plus taxes per night for bathhouse use daily.

samanvaya-bali.com