Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast, one swim stop at a time

On a seven-night Unforgettable Croatia sailing from Dubrovnik to Split, secluded coves, storied island towns and exceptional tables ashore set the rhythm – with a little help from the Croatian art of pomalo

As Captain Ante Franin gently guides the gleaming, white 50m-long motoryacht MS My Wish past vertiginous rocky cliffs into the four-metre-deep aquamarine waters of Hvar island’s Vela Stiniva cove, I wonder if we’ll kiss the shoreline. 

Just like the locals chatting on the fine-pebbled beach or wading in the shallows, quietly watching his expert manoeuvring, he epitomises the Croatian concept of ‘pomalo‘. Wearing Birkenstocks, no less. 

I’m on a seven-night adults-only Luxury Dalmatian Wonders cruise, operated by specialist small-ship cruising company Unforgettable Croatia, between Dubrovnik and Split, two history-rich harbour cities. This itinerary spans UNESCO World Heritage-listed sites, old towns, medieval cities, verdant islands and fishing villages, a national park and numerous beaches.

On my first day onboard the modern, unassuming 36-passenger vessel, cheery cruise director Marina Rogoznica defines pomalo. “It means to slow down and live fully in the moment,” she says. “And that is exactly what we will do over the next few days.”

Certainly, the Mediterranean midsummer heat necessitates a downshift in gears. It doesn’t take long for my circadian rhythm to synchronise with the unhurried pace.

On board My Wish

Over the last 15 years, Croatia has built a sizeable fleet of family-owned and -operated motoryachts and quietly established a Mediterranean monopoly on cabin charter cruises. More recently, Unforgettable Croatia has made its 38-strong fleet available for private charter, too. 

It’s easy to see why a cabin charter cruise is the most logical way to explore the Dalmatian Coast, especially for first-timers. “You don’t need to hire a car or take ferries between destinations, so it’s a lot more relaxing,” Franin explains. 

My forward cabin, one of 18 en-suites, has a balcony where I can breathe in the sea breeze. And while the ship’s interior design may be more minimalist than glitzy, compared with the private yachts I see docked in Dubrovnik’s Gruz harbour, the hospitality of the crew is warm and personalised.

A swimmingly good time

Fellow passengers, too, are easygoing and friendly. Within the first couple of days, I make fast friends with Aileen Tong and her husband, Patrick Hyland, of northern California. 

Indeed, when planning this trip, the promise of cooling off with daily swim stops in sheltered bays made it especially appealing. One morning, while anchored off Ciovo islet, Tim Holt and his 14-year-old son Max, visiting from Melbourne, are throwing an inflatable football back and forth. Max is the youngest passenger, but he’s having a whale of a time and making the most of the beach club set up on the stern. Meanwhile, Chicago-based Lydia Deniz, together with partner Arda Goker, keeps up her fitness routine with standup paddleboarding and yoga at the onboard outdoor gym.

One morning, we dock in the long, natural harbour of the sleepy fishing village of Milna, on Hvar island. Teal seas shimmer and pastel-hued villas stud the water’s edge. Soon enough, I’m swimming laps with Aileen off a small pebbled beach, pleased to spot sea urchins clinging to rocks; proof that the water quality is excellent. 

On Brač island, we manage to reach Zlatni Rat, the shape-shifting white pebble beach also known as Golden Horn, in the morning, before it starts to become too busy.

Culinary surprises onboard and ashore

Stepping back onboard, a family-style lunch awaits in the air-conditioned saloon. Our itinerary also allows us plenty of opportunities to sample a wide range of Croatian cuisine ashore. Some of my favourites turn out to be firmly traditional. On Korčula island at Belin, a welcoming konoba (tavern) in the inland village of Žrnovo, my husband and I try makaruni, a type of hyperlocal hand-rolled pasta, with veal. 

In Milna, we dine at Bago, an unpretentious seaside fish taverna owned by Luka, a fisherman who shares kitchen duties with his wife Marina. We polish off an expertly chargrilled whole scorpion fish he caught that day. “Now, that’s what I love to see!” Luka exclaims as he passes by our table.

One evening in Jelsa, families stroll the atmospheric harbourfront as the sun starts to set. Reservations are essential at Me & Mrs Jones, an intimate, open-air restaurant where a young, savvy team serves elevated Mediterranean fare.

Teal seas shimmer and pastel-hued villas stud the water’s edge. Soon enough, I’m swimming laps with Aileen off a small pebbled beach, pleased to spot sea urchins clinging to rocks; proof that the water quality is excellent. 

In Croatia’s oldest Adriatic coastal town, Šibenik, on the central Dalmatian coast, Michelin-starred Pelegrini sits in an ethereal medieval courtyard high above the sea. Delicate fish and seafood are the highlights of a seasonal tasting menu.

Meanwhile, Šug, a Michelin-recommended restaurant beyond Split’s busy coastal promenade, is phenomenal. Seated among locals at lunch, I sample classic Dalmatian pašticada, a slow-braised meat dish made here with venison and served with potato gnocchi.

As a seafood savant, I relish oyster tasting at a family-owned oyster and mussel farm on an islet a short boat ride from the coastal town of Ston. Cultivated in waters said to be among the cleanest in the country, the European flat oyster has a salty, mineral taste that pairs well with fruity, local white Posip wine.

Exploring Croatian history and culture

The Dalmatian coast is teeming with historical and cultural drawcards, and Unforgettable Croatia has clearly handpicked some of the best guides for their shore excursions. In Split, Hrvoje Sarun enthusiastically points out architectural details at Diocletian’s Palace, an elaborate ancient Roman complex that covers almost half of the historic centre. He later leads us through the spectacularly lush Krka National Park and its rushing waterfalls. Thanks to Nika Drobnic, we evade Dubrovnik’s crowds and humidity, following her down a shady, limestone-paved alley, where she points out 16th-century graffiti etched into a church wall.

If there’s anything I learn from this languid sailing and the Croatians, it is the art of taking it easy.

Journey Notes

Unforgettable Croatia offers seven-night small-ship cruises from AU$3,746 per person. This includes breakfast, lunch, two dinners, private transfers, all excursions and Wi-Fi. Flights are not included. unforgettablecroatia.com; (+61) 2 3805 9846