Wild gourmet: When a Park Hyatt chef forages for dinner in the NT

James Viles has been visiting Bamurru Plains for a decade. The first time he arrived as a working cook, the floodplains delivered 40 mud crabs by breakfast – and that was just the beginning of the most extraordinary menu in the Northern Territory

“I hope you’re hungry,” says James Viles, his eyes shining. “We pulled in 40 mud crab this morning.” It’s a fine start to my three-night stay at Bamurru Plains, a 26-person luxury safari lodge tucked into the corner of a buffalo station on the edge of a 300km2 private concession amid the Mary River system in Top End NT. My eyes drift beyond the teal blue infinity pool to where the sky touches the earth and floodplains merge into grasslands. There’s a lot to take in.

For guest chef Viles, it’s a far cry from city life as Executive Chef of the Park Hyatt, Sydney. “I’ve been coming here for a decade and I’m still discovering things. The wilderness gives me inspiration. We want to create dishes people haven’t experienced before.”

In season

It’s early Yekke, one of the six Indigenous seasons when the humidity is low, the water is high and the landscape awash with colour and life. ‘Bamurru’ means magpie geese in the language of the Gaagudju people. And it couldn’t be more apt. Graceful, loud and socially active, these large black and white waterfowl gather in their hundreds. Another 200+ bird species share this momentous eco-system together with a passing parade of mammals, reptiles, frogs and flora, their names crammed into a handy species checklist booklet. Buffalo wallow, agile wallabies box, brumbies trot past, jabirus stand elegantly, and the soundtrack of chirps, howls, tweets, snorts and trills rises and falls like a concerto.

Each of the 12 eco-chic safari tents is cleverly designed with mesh walls on three sides to be part of the outdoor scene, but still maintain privacy. With no wi-fi, TV or mobile reception in the cabins, it’s a chance to disconnect. Decked out with a king size bed, stylish soft furnishings, a beautiful outback themed bathroom, and handy touches like binoculars, a torch, insect repellent and filtered drinking water, it feels homely yet adventurous.

We dine on delicacies like Milanese risotto with a crocodile twist; buffalo lasagne, magpie goose san choy bao…and thinly sliced slow cooked beef.

Cool cruising

In true safari style, every morning and afternoon we head out to explore the environment on land and water. Sitting high in open vehicles we wind along bush tracks beneath canopies of trees dripping with foliage, or along the waterfront weaving around massive termite mounds. One day we witness a bull buffalo scare a croc away from a youngster; another we marvel at flashes of iridescent blue feathers as Azure Kingfishers play hide and seek siting by a billabong with a cocktail in hand.

 Life on the floodplain is a completely different experience. It’s my first time on an air boat and there are no words to describe the exhilaration of a safari truck on water, with a giant fan at the back skimming across the top of water, manoeuvring through reeds and ducking into hidden floating gardens. One morning we stop amongst the lotuses and our guide, Annie gives us a hands-on lesson in how the Indigenous peoples use these ancient plants. We make sun hats from the giant leaves, that can also be used to hold water; taste the seeds and create thread by weaving fine strands of the stalk.

Another watery highlight is the day we meet up with the culinary team collecting goodies for dinner. Surrounded by a fairy-tale garden dotted with white lotus and melaleuca trees reflecting in the glassy water, there’s a search going on for the perfect slab of paperbark. We’re going to cook a whole barra the traditional way, wrapped in bark, Viles explains. Once deemed the right tree, an incision is made and a neat package peeled back ready for the fish. We then move on to another area for something a little more difficult to gather – green ants! “The trick is to take the whole nest without making them cranky,” Viles says as the tiny creatures crawl all over his hands. Eventually its ‘mission accomplished’ and we’re promised a ‘watch this space’ for a surprise dessert the following night.

Food, glorious food

The synergy between Viles and Head Chef, Adam Giddings is palpable. An open kitchen is the soul of the main lodge – a lofty relaxed luxe communal dining / lounge with a vaulted roof, thatched ceilings, hewn posts and polished floorboards. Cool and inviting, with oversized couches, Indigenous artwork, old maps and a fully stocked help yourself bar, the chefs buzz between the indoor workspace and the jewel in the crown of foodie mastery, a large outdoor firepit where food is cooked over coals or buried in sand.

Featuring foraged and local ingredients, dinners are gastronomic masterpieces. We dine on delicacies like Milanese risotto with a crocodile twist; buffalo lasagne, magpie goose san choy bao, barbecued Carpentarian prawns, Barramundi wings with mortadella chilli crunch, and thinly sliced slow cooked beef. Lotus stems flavour salads, chimchurri is made from muntries and bush apples, and the paperbark Barramundi with myrtle and curry leaf butter is a triumph. As for the for the mud crab, we savour it au natural; in a papaya salad, as mee goreng served in the shell, and in tartlets with a touch of dashi. And where did all those green ants go? Whipped into an unforgettable citrusy curd tart with burnt meringue. Bravo chefs!

Journey Notes

A safari bungalow for two guests starts at $7,251 for three nights inclusive of meals, snacks, open bar drinks, and all activities. A 30-minute charter flight from Darwin for up to five people can be arranged and is priced at $2,400 for the round trip. Alternatively, the drive from Darwin is approximately 3 hours via Kakadu National Park. luxurylodgesofaustralia.com.au