Barcelona and beyond: An art-rich journey beyond Gaudí

From Modernisme icons to mountaintop monasteries and Dalí’s surreal coast, this cultural route reveals Barcelona’s artistic depth and the Catalonia highlights worth travelling for

Christopher Columbus stands atop a column at Port Vell, at the southern end of Barcelona’s pedestrian boulevard, La Rambla. The 60-metre edifice – built to honour the Italian explorer whose 15^th century voyages to the New World brought Spain riches and far-flung colonies – is one of hundreds of monuments, sculptures, extravagant buildings and sumptuous churches in the capital city of Catalonia.

With museums crammed with priceless paintings and apartment buildings elevated to high works of art, it’s understandable Barcelona is somewhat over-loved. Even after five visits here, I admit to barely scratching its surface.

Walk Barcelona’s cultural spine

Much of Barcelona is walkable, so it’s a good idea to get acquainted by strolling the 1.2-km Rambla, passing flower stalls and the Gran Theatre del Liceu with its glittering Hall of Mirrors. Branch off to the east to get lost in Barri Gotic, (the Gothic Quarter) and Le Born, wandering tight alleyways that open onto squares to reveal the 15^th century Barcelona Cathedral and, behind a non-descript entrance, the Picasso Museum, honouring the genius co-founder of Cubism and brimming with 1200 of his works.  

Modernisme masterpieces in Eixample

At the thoroughfare’s northern end is Placa de Catalunya (Catalonia Square), Barcelona’s centre, where the old city and 19^th century-built neighbourhood of Eixample converge.

It’s in this barri that tourists gather, apps and maps in hand, craning their necks as they queue to see the works of the Art Nouveau master architect, Antonio Gaudi.

His apartment buildings, Casa Battlo and Casa Mila, dazzle with their other-worldly designs adorned with mosaics and twisted metal balconies, while off in the near distance, sticking out like a sore thumb with 18 spires, is Sagrada Familia, Holy Family Basilica – Gaudi’s unfinished masterpiece and the most visited attraction in the city and indeed Spain.

Beyond Gaudí: Catalonia’s other visionaries

Marketers quip that Barcelona is the ‘City of Gaudi’ but while a short visit might confirm that impression, there is much more to see.

Gaudi is matched by architect Lluis Domenech I Montaner, who was, in fact, his teacher. For sheer delight take in a performance at Domenech’s concert hall, Palau de la Musica in the Gothic Quarter, and spend half a day in wonder at the Recinte Modernista St Pau, once a hospital with whimsical towers, blue-tiled pavilions and tunnels, and now a fabulous museum.

Before travelling further afield in Catalonia, make time to visit the Museum Nacional d’Art de Catalunya on Montjuic Hill housing 19^th and 20^th century Catalan masterpieces, and take the lift to the roof of the Arenas de Barcelona (the former bullring) for a 360-degree panorama and the famous sculpture by Joan Miro, Woman and Bird, in the park below.

Montserrat’s sacred art and serrated peaks

In-the-know travellers set aside several days to explore Montserrat’s Benedictine Monastery either by train or tour, along with the Costa Brava to view the eccentric genius of Salvador Dali, who was born and lived in this coastal region along with his wife and muse, Gala.

Montserrat, 48 kilometres to the northwest, has been a place of pilgrimage for centuries, where devotees come to honour the Virgin or ‘Monserrat’ or ‘Black Madonna’, a wooden icon, which one tale alleges was found by shepherd boys in 880 AD in a nearby cave. Years later a monastery was built in the shadow of the pink-tinged jagged mountains (the name means ‘serrated’) and today the icon is housed on a golden altar in the Throne Room of the mountain-top basilica. Adjoining it is a museum with paintings by Catalan and Spanish masters including Picasso, Dali, Miro, Degas and El Greco.

The Dalí Triangle on the Costa Brava

Many art lovers explore the Dali Triangle – the three towns of Figueres, Port Lligat and Pubol – where Dali was born. It is home to the stunning Theatre Museum, where he lived by the sea surrounded by whacky steel eggs, Perrelli tyres and an assortment of stuffed animals; and the castle he bought for his artist wife. A hire car or tour is the easiest way to explore each gem, but if time is limited take the train to Figueres to be gobsmacked by a treasure trove of installations, paintings and precious jewels in a building topped by a glass dome.

Surprisingly for a region of flamboyant artists, Catalan cuisine is hearty and down to earth. The staple with every meal is the humble pa amb tomaquet (bread rubbed with tomato and oil), while stews of rabbit, veal or seafood,  roasted vegetables and salted cod are firm favourites. These solid super-flavoursome dishes are the perfect fuel for art-exploring.