The best Champagne for Australian celebrations, according to Lanson’s Chef de Caves

Maison Lanson has been making Champagne since 1760, and its approach hasn’t changed much since: no malolactic fermentation, extended cellaring, and an obsession with freshness. Ahead of Bastille Day, the house’s Chef de Caves talks about what separates a serious bottle from entry-level, why Australians are among the world’s most open-minded drinkers, and the one wine he’d open for a summer celebration

Maison Lanson has a long and distinctive history. What does the role of Chef de Caves actually involve, and what does it mean to be the custodian of a house like this?

The Chef de Caves at Lanson is the guardian of the House’s wine style. As the person responsible for both the vineyard and the winemaking, the Chef de Caves must craft wines that faithfully express the House’s signature style, while respecting its history and preserving its heritage.

What separates a serious Champagne from an entry-level bottle and how should someone who wants to “drink better” start approaching that difference?

The greatness of a Champagne is always the result of countless details, each of them essential. At Lanson, we pay meticulous attention to every stage of the process: selecting grapes from the historic terroirs of Champagne, using a traditional winemaking approach that preserves the freshness of our wines, and ageing every bottle for an extended period in our cellars before it is released.

Lanson is known for its non-malolactic fermentation style. For someone unfamiliar, what does that mean in practice and why does it matter to you?

By choosing not to carry out malolactic fermentation, we preserve the grapes’ natural malic acid throughout the winemaking process. This natural acidity is a key source of fruit expression and freshness in our wines. The result is Champagnes that retain intense fresh fruit aromas throughout their lifetime, supported by remarkable vitality and freshness.

Champagne culture in Australia is growing. What do you notice about how Australians drink and celebrate with Champagne, compared to the French?

Australians and French people share a genuine appreciation for Champagne, but they often enjoy it differently.

In France, Champagne is still closely associated with gastronomy and celebrations around the table. In Australia, I find people are often more spontaneous in their enjoyment of Champagne. Australians are very good at creating occasions, whether it is a beach gathering, a barbecue with friends, a sporting event or simply enjoying a beautiful summer afternoon.

What I particularly enjoy is the openness and curiosity of Australian consumers. They are eager to learn, ask questions and explore different styles of Champagne. There is a real enthusiasm that makes the market both dynamic and exciting.

If you were recommending a single bottle from Maison Lanson for an Australian summer celebration, what would it be and why?

Rosé Création is an ideal Champagne for the Australian summer. Delicate, fruit-driven and wonderfully refreshing, it is a versatile wine that can be enjoyed on any occasion, from a relaxed aperitif on a sunny terrace to the perfect accompaniment to fresh summer cuisine.

Bastille Day is a big moment in the Australian dining and events calendar. What would you say to Australians who want to mark it the way the French actually would?

The French approach is perhaps simpler than many people imagine.

Bastille Day is above all about sharing time with family and friends, enjoying good food, good wine and good conversation. There is no need for excessive formality. A relaxed lunch, a beautiful dinner, some music, a few laughs and a bottle of Champagne shared amongst friends is probably the most authentic way to celebrate.

If Australians want to celebrate Bastille Day like the French, my advice would simply be: slow down, gather people you enjoy being with and focus on the pleasure of the moment.

The French approach to hosting is something people romanticise but rarely understand. What does a great soirée actually look like and what do people get wrong?

Many people imagine a French soirée as something highly sophisticated and perfectly orchestrated. In reality, the best evenings are often the simplest ones. Great food matters, of course, and so does great wine, but what truly makes a memorable soirée is the atmosphere. Good conversation, laughter, generosity and a sense of ease are far more important than perfection.

What people often get wrong is believing that everything must be flawless. In France, we are generally less concerned with perfection than with creating a warm and enjoyable experience for our guests. A successful soirée is one where nobody notices the time passing because everyone is enjoying themselves.

What’s your go-to food pairing with Champagne that consistently surprises people?

The most classic pairing with Champagne is undoubtedly seafood. However, there is a lesser-known but consistently highly relevant pairing: Champagne and cheese, particularly cooked pressed cheeses such as Comté or Parmigiano Reggiano.

For anyone visiting the Champagne region, where should they eat, what should they do, and what’s the one thing most tourists miss?

If you come to Champagne, you should first visit the Champagne cellars, which are truly exceptional, with their network of underground galleries where millions of bottles rest dozens of metres below the surface. We would be delighted to welcome you at Lanson to discover our seven kilometres of cellars.

Dining in one of the region’s many Michelin-starred restaurants is another unique experience not to be missed. In Reims, L’Assiette Champenoise, Le Parc des Crayères or L’Arbane will offer you a truly memorable gastronomic experience. 

A visit to the Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Reims is another remarkable highlight: a masterpiece of Gothic architecture and, above all, the historic site where 33 Kings of France were crowned. What visitors most often lack, however, is time, as the region is exceptionally rich in both its wines and its history.

What’s a bottle you open for yourself, not for a special occasion – just because you want a great glass of Champagne?

Sharing a bottle of Lanson Vintage is always a special moment, whether with family or friends, by the fireside in winter or on a sunny terrace in summer. This wine, with its exquisite freshness and exceptional maturity, will always enliven conversations in a joyful way, and will accompany your dishes, from the simplest to the most elaborate with great elegance.