Gozo Island, Malta: The island most Malta visitors never reach

Gozo is where Maltese go on holiday – a 67-square-kilometre island less than 20 minutes from the mainland, with temples older than Stonehenge, a medieval citadel that once sheltered an entire population from Ottoman invaders, and coastline best explored from the water. Most Malta visitors never make the crossing. They’re missing the better half

Many people have heard of Malta, few have heard of Gozo. Yet this 67 sq km island which is less than 20 minutes from – and within sight of – Malta, is where the locals take their holidays. So what’s it all about?

Malta’s quieter sister isle offers a break from the bustle of Malta proper. Still heavily agricultural and lacking the swathes of resorts and hotels found on the mainland, Gozo retains an atmosphere of days gone by. Peaceful bays, hand-tilled hillsides and a maximum travel time of 30 minutes no matter where you’re headed, make it the perfect place to slow down and take stock. 

It’s exactly why so many Maltese own second properties here, using their flats and farmhouses for long weekend getaways in the summer and as boltholes from which to enjoy popular Gozitan festivals such as the Feast of St. George or Nadur’s spontaneous carnival year round. 

Only a small portion of Malta’s visitors make it over to Gozo, meaning what you see on a visit here is comparatively undiscovered. And, thanks to the archipelago’s extensive history, there are ancient sites to rival – and in some instances, beat – anything on Malta.

The day trip to Gozo with Ormina Tours begins with a stop at the Ggantija Temples in Xaghra. This millennia-old limestone construction is believed to be one of the first manmade structures anywhere in the world. It was built between 3600 and 3200 BCE and pre-dates (by far) archeological icons such as the Great Pyramids of Giza and Stonehenge – as well as the megalithic temples on Malta’s mainland. Ggantija means ‘giant’ in Maltese, a name originating from local folklore which tells of a giant named Sansuna who built the temples out of enormous limestone boulders – some weighing over 50 tonnes – as a place of worship.

Perched on Xaghra’s hilltop, this UNESCO World Heritage Site sits within streets of other hidden Gozitan gems. A short walk away are Ninu’s Cave and Xerri’s Grotto, mesmerising underground caves filled with calcified stalagmites and stalactites which exist beneath residents’ houses and were discovered accidentally by their owners.

Gozo’s historic sites – both natural and manmade – are expansive, and you could easily spend days exploring them all. Thankfully, Ormina has got the big-hitters covered, taking you from Ggantija to Victoria’s imposing citadel, which crowns an outcrop in the centre of the capital. Though the spot has shown evidence of habitation as far back as the Stone Age, today’s impressive walled fortress was built between the 15th and 17th centuries. 

It boasts a storied history, but among its most famous moments was the 1551 Ottoman siege, which saw the entire population of the island (roughly 5,000 – 6,000 people) take refuge inside from the attacking army. Brutally, only about 40 people survived the attack, the rest either killed or taken to slavery in North Africa. 

Wandering the paved streets of this miniature city is an experience in itself; the views out across Gozo unparalleled anywhere else on the island. But there’s plenty to explore within, too. In addition to an 18th-century Baroque cathedral, soaring grain silos and cramped World War Two shelters, there’s also four museums – including the fascinating Museum of Archeology.

Arguably more appealing than its history however is Gozo’s countryside. Maltese people love to relax on the red sands of Ramla beach, or enjoy early morning swims in the shallow, gin-clear waters of Xwejni and San Blas bays. In Gozo, you’re never more than about ten minutes from the sea, lending the island a seriously serene air. 

But its land is diverse, and supports every sense of adventure, whether its outdoor adrenaline experiences or off-the-grid relaxation. The island’s undulating coastline is made up of dramatic 120-metre-high cliffs which sweep down to secluded bays and quaint seaside towns. A coastal path traces the circumference of the island, making it easy to take it all in via mountain bike, ATV, quad bike or simply walking (though there’s little shade so be sure to take a hat and sun cream).

In your free time, prioritise Xwejni’s salt pans, where locals maintain a 350-year-old tradition harvesting the mineral from hundreds of huge trays carved into the rock. Head along the coast to the rock arch of Wied il-Meilah, the only one left on the island since the fall of the Azure Window in 2017, and hike down to Mgarr ix-Xini, a deep-cut bay beautiful enough to tempt Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie to spend their honeymoon here, and which sports fantastic snorkelling waters and a restaurant famed for its seafood.

Perhaps the best way to appreciate Gozo’s natural beauty, however, is as seafarers of old would have done: from the ocean. Hire a motorboat from the seaside town of Xlendi, or join any number of boat tours around the island’s mesmeric edges. Cruise to Dwerja to see towering Fungus Rock, and past the Inland Sea, a triangular tunnel cut right through the cliff face to a pool landside. Look out for Cory’s shearwaters nesting in the cliffs, and peer down into waters filled with damselfish, parrotfish and if you’re lucky, perhaps even a turtle or two.   

More than anything, Gozo is slow. From the fisherman sitting for hours on the cliffs waiting to catch a bite, to the locals bobbing in the warm, calm waters, it’s Malta’s quiet counterpart, and an essential stop on any island itinerary.

Visit Ormina Tours to book your Gozo adventure.