Feeding the soul with a journey through Ireland

With its wild scenery, fascinating ancient history and a people known for their enduring spirit of warmth and quick wit, a visit to the island of Ireland leaves a lasting impression on the soul

I count seven rainbows during my nine days in Ireland. Beacons of soft colour, they emerge from grizzly clouds alongside streaks of sunshine that illuminate the contrasting hues of the landscape below. It’s not difficult to deduce why the musician Johnny Cash was inspired to write Forty Shades of Green while travelling around the Emerald Isle. The enamouring qualities of the scenery link county to county, and there is a shade of green to be found everywhere you go — from the tufts of grass that sprout between the rocky limestone terrain of The Burren, to the bright-green moss of the Connemara woodland, to the lushly blanketed Cliffs of Moher that jut into the wild surf of the Atlantic.

But green takes on another meaning in today’s climate. And the island of Ireland is well-suited to sustainability-minded travellers seeking a profound connection to the environment.

Touring land and sea

Across the island, cycleways that pass through striking scenery have been established for travellers wanting to explore more on two wheels. In County Down, Northern Ireland, the Mourne Mountains frame the 460 ha Castlewellan Forest Park, with 27 km of mountain bike trails catering to different aptitudes. The Wild Atlantic Way, spanning 2,500 km of Ireland’s West Coast, is the longest coastal touring route in the world – 1600 km of cyclable terrain make for a dynamic journey from north to south, passing through searingly beautiful landscapes, villages and cities that abound with Irish tradition.

For those wanting to get out on the water, the consistent swell of the North Atlantic on Ireland’s West Coast creates ideal conditions for surfing. In the quaint, colourful town of Lahinch in County Clare, I count more than 30 surfers braving the November temperatures to catch a wave. North, in County Sligo, the recent opening of a National Surf Centre in Strandhill is part of efforts to establish the seaside town as a world-class surfing destination. The centre will host national and international surfing competitions and visitors can book lessons at one of several local surf schools.

Next door, at the VOYA Seaweed Baths, the power of the ocean is being harnessed in a different way. Inspired by both a history of seaweed therapies in Ireland, and his experience using seaweed as a recovery aid when he was a professional junior triathlete, Neil Walton established the bathhouse in 2000 – it now welcomes more than 40,000 visitors a year. The signature treatment sees freshly hand-harvested seaweed and seawater, pumped directly from the Atlantic, combined for a relaxing bathing experience.

“We have many regular customers who find the Seaweed Baths so beneficial in the treatment of skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, and dermatitis, and also for relieving pain associated with rheumatism and arthritis”, says VOYA Therapist Manager Vanessa O’Hara. “As you bathe in the seaweed, the body absorbs all of the minerals and vitamins, leaving you feeling revitalised.”

A natural bounty

Ireland’s vast rolling farmlands and cold-water coastlines produce an abundance of culinary experiences. In the remote west of County Mayo, the wildly beautiful Achill Island ­– a setting for the 2022 film, The Banshees of Inisherin – is separated from the mainland by a serene sound. The production of sea salt, honey, oysters, salmon, and mussels, not to mention Ireland’s only island whiskey distillery, are helping to put Achill more firmly on the foodie map. A stop at the family owned Calvey’s Butchers presents an opportunity to sample lamb from the nearby mountain, grilled simply with salt. It’s tender, slightly sweet, and possibly the best I’ve ever tasted.

Further south in County Clare, The Burren Smokehouse produces exquisite organic smoked salmon. Founded by Birgitta and Peter Curtin, the sustainable operation sees Irish salmon, cured with salt from Achill, and seaweed flavouring used in the cold-smoking process. Oak wood shavings from a local furniture maker fuel the smoke box fire, turf (or peat) dug up from bogland is used to increase the temperature for hot-smoking, and any offal is sent to local farmers for use as fertiliser.

The Roadside Tavern next door, formerly Peter’s family home for three generations, is where pints of The Burren Brewery craft beer are served, in a characterful interior strewn with photographs, vintage posters, and memorabilia. The VIP Meet the Makers experience combines a tour of the smokehouse with Birgitta, with a tasting of the micro-brewery’s four craft beers. Peter takes visitors through the brewing process while regaling them with captivating stories.

The quality of Ireland’s produce is complemented by a high calibre of creative culinary talent. At Graphite, in Newcastle, Northern Ireland, a beef tartare entrée is elevated with truffled egg yolk and pickled walnut. At the remote lakeside resort, Finn Lough, provenance informs the menu at The Barn restaurant, where innovative small plates present a taste of seasonal Irish flavours sourced from the kitchen garden, onsite polytunnel, and foraged from the surrounding woodland. The mushroom toast balances tart, creamy labneh and sourdough bread with a burst of salty umami from mushroom ketchup, shiitake, and truffle oil.

Luxury stays

Gastronomy is but one element of a stay at Finn Lough that connects guests with the environment. The luxury resort, set on Lough Erne near the border with the Republic in the far west of County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland, accommodates guests in a series of bubble domes, villas, and suites that are scattered throughout dense forest. A wellness ethos is evident in a forest spa trail, on which guests can experience a salt float, Finnish sauna, herbal sauna, lakeview hot tub, and cold-water plunge. The absence of Wi-Fi and a television in the bubble domes presents the opportunity to truly disconnect, while transparent ceilings and walls create the sensation of being at one with nature – particularly on a clear night, when one can drift off underneath the stars.

On a private 283 ha estate in the beautiful, sprawling landscapes of Connemara, County Galway, Ballynahinch Castle is a riverside escape that offers a genuine guest experience akin to that of renowned luxury lodges in Australia and New Zealand. The Relais & Châteaux member property serves elevated gastronomy at Owenmore Restaurant, while outdoor activities like fly-fishing, guided walking tours to take in the region’s history and geology, and boating excursions, are each designed to connect guests with the surrounding wilderness.

Where the Irish Sea meets the Mourne Mountains on Northern Ireland’s East Coast, the seaside town of Newcastle is home to the imposing Slieve Donard Hotel. Recently refurbished, the hotel’s 125-year heritage of Victorian grandeur has been carefully preserved – rooms and suites are colourfully decorated with plaid carpeting, custom-designed furnishings, and artworks that illustrate the hotel’s storied past. A stone’s throw from Royal County Down, one of the world’s most prestigious golf clubs – and host of the 2024 Irish Open – the property also houses a spa with a 20-metre indoor swimming pool, thermal suite, and treatments using ESPA products.

Good to know

There’s an ‘invisible border’ between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland that enables easy travel around the island

Travellers should expect to pay in Euros in the Republic, and British Pound Sterling in Northern Ireland

There are nine airports around the island: four in Northern Ireland, and five in the Republic of Ireland

Travel to coincide with St Patrick’s Day, on 17 March, to encounter numerous festivals and events taking place around the island to celebrate Ireland’s Patron Saint

Journey Notes

Getting there

Qatar Airways, Emirates, and Etihad fly from Sydney and Melbourne to Dublin via Doha, Dubai, and Abu Dhabi, respectively. Aer Lingus is Ireland’s flag carrier, with connections between Dublin and major cities in Europe and the United States. 

Staying there

Forest Bubble Domes at Finn Lough start from £310 (about AU$600) per night, including breakfast. finnlough.com

Rates at Ballynahinch Castle start at €305 (about AU$507) per night, including breakfast. ballynahinch-castle.com

Room rates at Slieve Donard Hotel start from £216 (about AU$415) per night. marineandlawn.com/slievedonard

For more information on planning a trip to the island of Ireland, visit ireland.com, discovernorthernireland.com and discoverireland.ie