Kerala backwaters: The art of slow travel in south India

The Kerala backwaters move at their own pace – and that, it turns out, is exactly the point. From ayurveda rituals and candlelit canal cruises to the multilayered history of Fort Kochi, this is a corner of south India that rewards those willing to slow down

Wherever I turn, there is water – the expansive span of Vembanad lake in front, and the narrow channels winding through the resort all around. It has just stopped raining, and the swaying palms at the aptly named Coconut Lagoon are glistening with dewdrops in the late afternoon sun. The stifling heat of the day has given way to a pleasant chill. Lunch is already a distant memory, while it is too early to be thinking (aloud) of dinner. In other words, it is the perfect time for tea – served up with a side of something hot and fried, please.

At that moment a long boat pulls up at the edge of the water. At the oars is a frail, old woman in a cotton sari, who docks the rowboat with practiced ease and begins to set out the paraphernalia for an elaborate tea session. It is chaya chechi (literally, tea sister), a local legend who has been invited by the property to come by every evening to serve her tea and snacks to guests at this backwaters resort. As we watch, the copper samovar is heated, milky tea is brewed and handed out in tall glasses, and dozens of photos are captured. Just as quickly, she winds everything down and rows away, disappearing from view in minutes.

Life on the water

Here in Kerala, the tiny south Indian state that hugs the Arabian Sea and unabashedly promotes itself as “god’s own country”, life is dictated by the ebb and flow of water. And it is particularly true where I am staying, on the picturesque backwaters region of Kumarakom, just a couple of hours drive out of the bustling metropolis of Kochi. After the tea break, it is time for a sunset cruise, where we float on Vembanad lake watching the orange-pink blush of the monsoon sky.

On a leisurely canoe ride the next morning, I get a glimpse of everyday life played out on the banks of the labyrinth of backwater canals. There are kids with polished faces and oiled hair, walking to school. There are men on their bicycles, others shimmying up and down palm trees to cut fresh coconut, or to harvest a new batch of toddy (a potent, fermented palm liquor). And then there are the women at work, loudly washing clothes, rowing impossibly small boats to the market, or chopping vegetables while also chatting with their neighbours.

If there is one common thread among these disparate folks, it is their unhurried movement. It is as if generational wisdom passed down through the ages has taught them that life is meant be lived and savoured slowly. I find it easy to slip into a languid rhythm myself, emerging from my pool villa at one end of the property only at mealtimes or for a soporific abhyanga oil massage at the inhouse ayurveda centre. The last is an unmissable experience, given that Kerala is the birthplace of the traditional wellness therapy known as ayurveda, or the science of life, which has found its way all over the world.

Colonial roots

While the villas at Coconut Lagoon reflect the architectural design of native homes known as tharavadu, with sprawling courtyards, solid wooden pillars and sloping roofs, Brunton Boatyard, from the same Kochi-based hospitality group, is a restored 18th century boatyard set up by Geo Brunton and Sons. Located at one corner of a busy road in the precinct known as Fort Kochi, this property is a throwback to the town’s multilayered European heritage, that began with the Portuguese in 1503, changing hands through the Dutch and then the British over the next four hundred years.

On a guided walk through Fort Kochi, I learn more about this complex history, and how remnants are still scattered across the neighbourhood. There’s the Portuguese Church of St Francis with its brilliant stained glass windows and explorer Vasco Da Gama’s original tomb, the atmospheric Dutch cemetery with over a 100 crumbling tombs, and dozens of British-era bungalows and warehouses that are slowly finding a new lease of life as guesthouses, cafés or studios. And along the backwater shores on the main road, there are the gigantic cheena vala, or Chinese fishing nets, a clever cantilevered system brought from Kublai Khan’s royal court by early 15th century traders.

If there is one common thread among these disparate folks, it is their unhurried movement.

The walk takes us through the crowded bazaar, where the heady scent of peppercorns and cardamom wafts out from the spice shops on both sides. Interspersed in between are myriad art galleries and antique stores, which are only growing in popularity ever since the Kochi-Muziris Art Biennale started up in the winter of 2012, drawing art lovers from all over the world to this sleepy town. Over the years, many deserted and dilapidated buildings along the stretch of Fort Kochi have been repurposed into buzzing venues for art installations, biennale events and workshops.

To keep these visitors fed and hydrated, dozens of delightful cafés have also sprung up around these lanes, offering a wide variety of cuisines from south Indian to Mexican and Italian. But I avert my eyes from their siren call, choosing to sit down at the waterfront Armoury Restobar at Brunton Boatyard for a satisfying sadya – a delicious spread of traditional Kerala dishes, mildly spiced with black pepper, cumin and fresh coconut, and served on a banana leaf. And I can see how these simple spices managed to lure all those European explorers to these distant shores.

Journey Notes

Travel: The nearest international airport is at Kochi, with flights from Australia connecting via Singapore or Kuala Lumpur.

Stay: Brunton Boatyard has a great location in Fort Kochi, within easy walking distance of all attractions. For a relaxing backwaters experience, book a villa at Coconut Lagoon.