Go with the flow at New Zealand’s Maruia River Retreat

Tucked deep in the forests of New Zealand’s South Island, this riverside retreat offers a luxe reset for body and soul – yoga and sunrise wake-ups optional

When I told friends I was heading to a luxury wellness retreat in New Zealand for a little reset, they laughed – not because of the destination, but because my husband, who has spent his life avoiding anything remotely “wellness-related”, was coming with me. But the joke was on them. At Maruia River Retreat in the Maruia Valley, about 2.5 hours’ drive from Christchurch, not only did he join me on the mat for some down dogs and morning stretches – by the end of our stay, he didn’t want to leave.

That’s the thing about this boutique retreat, set on 200 hectares of secluded forest: expert-led yoga is available, but never imposed. There are no mandatory green smoothies or 6am wake-up calls. Yoga is always optional, and sleep-ins are not only accepted – they’re encouraged. Other wellness offerings abound: hot tub soaks, deep-tissue massages, saunas, swims, spa treatments, or simply the chance to wander and unwind in pristine wilderness. It’s all complemented by gourmet meals and New Zealand wines. That’s my kind of wellness – a luxury reset without the rigidity. 

Namaste

At the heart of Maruia River Retreat are Cristina and Lasse Holopainen – hosts, owners and gentle guides who, with their tiny team, make guests feel genuinely nurtured. Whether preparing bountiful food, leading classes or guiding forest rambles, their passion for what they do is evident. It feels like staying with friends.

Originally a fly-fishing lodge, the property was lovingly transformed over six years into an exclusive eco-wellness retreat, and opened in 2019, just before COVID hit. Harnessing the power of an onsite stream, the property’s just-commissioned mini-hydro plant means Maruia will be carbon neutral. Suites have been stylishly refurbished and the cosy lounge with fireplace and bar provides a convivial place to gather with other guests for pre-dinner tipples and chat. 

The couple are both accomplished yoga teachers, having established and run studios in the Philippines for many years, so it’s no surprise yoga is central to Maruia. The professional studio, which is generous in space, sunlit and well equipped, signals its importance, as do occasional yoga-focused retreats. But on our two-day ‘Reconnect with Nature’ stay, participation is optional. This low-key approach and civilised 8am starting time gets my husband over the line for his first ever yoga class. He’s pleasantly surprised by how it feels to make acquaintance with his body, though the second morning he prefers a slow start with solo coffees while I return to the mat, this time with Cristina – and that’s perfectly fine, too.

Our hosts’ passion for their practice and their desire to share its transformative powers is palpable. “I practise yoga because I think there’s more to me, and I teach yoga because I think there’s more to you,” explains Lasse.

Forest connection

Their private slice of the South Island’s Nelson-Tasman region is something else they love sharing. On a meander through cool, verdant forest I’m surrounded by the birdsong of tuis and bell birds beneath towering beeches and kahikatea trees. The understory is thick with emerald mosses and delicate, primordial ferns.

Lasse is our guide and a fount of knowledge on everything we pass: tree and bird species, Maori spices, Celtic traditions, which plants are poisonous or medicinal and which can be used for weapons or knotted into walking sticks. As we walk, he speaks of his connection to the land he now calls home. “I love being here. I can’t live anywhere else now.  For me it’s healing – it gives perspective,” he explains. It’s clear he hopes others might find the same.

Later I return alone, camera in hand, hoping to capture a fragment of its beauty. The darting fantails with tails spread are too quick for me but the quiet paths are restorative in themselves.

Take me to the river

It’s not all about yoga at Maruia. On day one I try forest bathing – literally. After a dose of infrared chromotherapy sauna among the trees, I float languidly in a timber hot tub, gazing up into a green canopy of beeches. Toes poking above the gloriously warm water, I can hear the Maruia River whooshing past below. I’m told the river, known for brown trout and rafting (another possibility for adventure-seeking visitors) is “wonderfully cold”, a hearty euphemism no doubt. Its quick current offers natural resistance to swimmers wanting a workout without going far, but braving its icy embrace isn’t on my dance card. That’s the beauty of options. 

Wellness your way 

A dip in the eight-metre magnesium pool, comfortably heated, is definitely more my style. Here I can imbibe minerals with a gentle soak or expend energy stroking against current-like jets. A Finnish dry sauna and a choice of hot/cold shower facilities offer contrast therapy. 

On my last day I book a massage with the visiting therapist from Murchison, reputedly the best in the ‘Top of the South’, who offers a range of facials or soothing and therapeutic massages. Katharina is so accommodating she includes a bit of both, organic products replenishing my face and firm fingers easing knots I didn’t even know I had.  

Creature comforts

Maruia River Retreat is a touch of luxury in the wild. With just seven studio apartments, privacy and space are indulgences in themselves, but my premium Luxe Villa suite takes it to the next level. It comes with an elegant, generous lounge, spa bath and long balcony with mountain and river views. The gloriously comfy king bed, block-out curtains and specially-designed sleep pillows encourage deep sleep, and there’s even a corner kitchen, just in case it’s needed. Spoiler: it’s not.

The food is another treat: generous portions of local produce lovingly prepared by the deft hands of Lasse himself, a master of all sorts of trades. Gifts from his garden appear in the meals – fresh vegetables, herbs and beechwood honey courtesy of nearby bees.

One evening’s meal begins with a choice of chilled tomato gazpacho or delicate langoustine crudo finished with wasabi oil. For mains, think lemon snapper tagine with dill and rose harissa, or Canterbury duck breast glazed with maple and served alongside plum chutney – best enjoyed with a silky Central Otago Pinot Noir. Dessert or cheese rounds out the experience. At Maruia, balance is the flavour of wellness – and it’s one both my husband and I could get used to.