Provence’s black truffle season and the villages that bring it to life

Between November and March, Provence’s quiet villages centre on truffle season – oak groves, market mornings and menus devoted to the region’s prized “black diamond”. Far from summer’s crowds, this is when the region feels most local, most seasonal, and most itself

Each winter, life in southern France follows an agricultural rhythm that rarely makes it into travel itineraries. In Provence, grape harvests and olive pressing give way to the truffle hunt, with growers, chefs and visitors converging on the Luberon’s oak forests and village markets to celebrate Tuber melanosporum – the black truffle that defines both the season and the region’s culinary identity.

France’s truffle heartland

Around three-quarters of France’s black truffles come from the Vaucluse – home to both the picturesque hilltop villages of the Luberon and the major truffle markets of Carpentras and Richerenches. The Carpentras market operates every Friday morning from November to March, while Richerenches, around 20 kilometres north, hosts Europe’s largest truffle market each Saturday. Both begin trading at dawn, with transactions handled by weight and often in cash. For visitors, smaller markets in Luberon villages such as Ménerbes and Apt offer a more approachable glimpse into the trade, pairing truffle stalls with local produce and tastings.

Gordes

One of France’s most recognisable – and beautiful – hilltop hamlets, Gordes overlooks the Luberon valley and sits within easy reach of olive groves, truffle farms and winter markets. The 16th-century Château de Gordes crowns its limestone streets, while nearby Abbaye de Sénanque adds a note of serenity even in the off-season. Many of the village’s small restaurants introduce seasonal truffle menus between November and February, featuring dishes such as omelettes, risotto and tagliolini with shaved Tuber melanosporum.

Ménerbes

Best known from Peter Mayle’s best-selling novel, A Year in Provence, Ménerbes holds a December truffle fair where growers, chefs and truffle dogs gather to celebrate the harvest. The surrounding oak woodland supports several licensed truffières that run guided hunts through the winter months, while the Maison de la Truffe et du Vin du Luberon in the village centre offers tastings and courses pairing local wines with the season’s black truffles.

Bonnieux and Lacoste

Two of the Luberon’s most photogenic villages, Bonnieux and Lacoste are neighbours divided by vineyards and joined by walking trails that weave between olive groves and cypress-lined lanes. Bonnieux’s tiered streets climb to a 12th-century church with sweeping views across the valley, and its Saturday market continues year-round, shifting in winter to dried fruit, nuts and regional cheeses. Across the valley, Lacoste’s restored Marquis de Sade château and art school keep the village lively even in the quieter months.

Traveller tip: Experiencing truffle season responsibly

The best time to visit Provence for truffles is mid-November to mid-March, with peak quality between January and February. Base yourself in the Vaucluse or Luberon regions near Carpentras, Richerenches, Gordes or Ménerbes for easy access to markets and oak groves. Purchase fresh truffles to enjoy while you’re there only – Australian biosecurity laws prohibit bringing them home – and choose sealed, commercially processed truffle products such as jars, tins or oils if you’d like a souvenir (always declare them at customs). Book guided truffle hunts or tastings through licensed operators, and avoid buying from unverified street sellers. Winter accommodation rates are generally lower, and many restaurants offer fixed-price truffle menus during the season.

Avignon

Avignon is Provence’s main transport hub (the TGV from Paris takes just 2½ hours) and an easy urban base for exploring the Vaucluse truffle markets. Within its 14th-century ramparts, Avignon’s bistros and fine-dining restaurants add truffles to winter menus, while the covered market at Les Halles often hosts demonstrations featuring produce from Carpentras and Richerenches.

Apt

The agricultural heart of the Luberon shifts naturally from autumn fruit harvests to winter truffle stalls, giving visitors a complete sense of the region’s food calendar. Its sprawling Saturday market – one of Provence’s oldest, dating back to the 12th century and recognised for its cultural heritage – remains the largest in the Luberon year-round. In winter, stalls brim with candied fruit, walnuts, honey and regional truffle products alongside crafts and textiles, offering a vivid portrait of local life beyond the summer season.

Truffle hunts and tastings

Licensed truffières across the Luberon and Alpilles open their gates each winter for guided hunts led by trained dogs. Most end with a tasting or a simple meal shared in the field – often eggs or pasta layered with freshly shaved truffle. Responsible operators work under agricultural permits and focus on cultivated orchards rather than wild foraging, helping protect the delicate local ecosystem.

Across Provence, traditional truffle dishes are deliberately simple, designed to let the aroma lead. During the season, restaurants and truffle markets typically serve eggs (brouillade), handmade pasta, or warm cheese lightly infused with truffle, often paired with local Luberon wines.