Finding stillness in the hills of Kandy at Santani Wellness

In the heart of Sri Lanka’s central highlands and surrounded by lush jungle and tea plantations, Santani Wellness Kandy embodies holistic style and ancient wellness wisdom

Whether travelling to Santani Wellness Kandy by road, helicopter or seaplane (though we opted for the humble car), all journeys will end with some length of drive in which you gaze in wonder at the densely packed peaks and valleys surrounding the small winding forest roads. They lead to the former Aratenna Tea Estate on which the property is nestled, elevated some 850 metres above sea level and southwest of the expansive Knuckles Forest Reserve in the World Heritage-listed Central Highlands of Sri Lanka.

Here, it is easy to forget that there is another world where life’s pressures and mundanities collide – in the supermarket bustle or stuck in the daily commute to work. Even the cultural hub of Kandy – just 30 kilometres away and home to a plethora of museums, some of the country’s finest local cuisine and the Sri Dalada Maligawa (Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic), a Buddhist temple that houses a tooth that belonged to the Buddha – feels a galaxy apart. Within the 47 hectares the resort calls home, the natural world rules.

Founder Vickum Nawagamuwage developed the concept for Santani thanks to both childhood memories of hiking and camping in the Sri Lankan wilderness with friends – and a newfound respect for holistic practices such as meditation, yoga and healthy eating that he learned from his wife while navigating the stresses of corporate life. All of this led to a sense that a culture of sustainability begins within. The result is a stunningly beautiful wellness resort comprising 20 chalets, a spa and yoga pavilion, an infinity pool and the striking main pavilion that together snake, flat-roofed and unobtrusive, through the landscape.

On arrival, we are driven to the latter in one of the resort’s eco-friendly electric buggies, along a gently undulating track flanked by tangles of jungle. A concierge indicates to the yoga pavilion and spa, nestled unassumingly into the greenery below; we catch a glimpse of rectilinear structures; flashes of white and reclaimed wood.

Relaxing by design

The heart of the property, the main pavilion, spans two levels and has a strict no-shoes policy, which, we are told, is to allow us to reconnect more directly with the elements after our journey. It is surprisingly soothing padding across the cool stone floors to a set of low sofas flanking a long wooden coffee table. Floor-to-ceiling glass allows this calming, minimalist space to blend seamlessly with the landscape, and beyond, it is simply green, green and more green as layers of tree-covered mountains, paddy fields and jungle stretch around all sides.

The architects behind the design are Thisara Thanapathy Associates, whose work “embraces beauty, wellbeing and nature,” and the synergy between the structures and the land they have created is undeniable.

The upper level of the pavilion, which houses the main restaurant, gives the impression of some jungle treehouse of Nawagamuwage’s childhood, reimagined as a sleek, modernist haven in which to dine. Light streams in from all sides thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows punctuated by slim pillars of timber, complemented by hardwood floors and simple, elegant wooden chairs upholstered with seats of deep blue.

The natural breeze while we dine is no lucky accident. The entire property is air-conditioning free, allowing Santani to save 70 per cent in energy that would otherwise go on an artificial ventilation system. In fact, the founder’s vision of nourishing a culture of sustainability is brought to life throughout the resort, from those electric buggies (though strolling through the grounds is such a delight we barely utilise them), to the reclaimed wood and the vast gardens, the majority of which is hydrated using treated recycled water.

The aesthetic and sustainable design principles of the main pavilion are echoed in our mountain view chalet, too, with yet more grey stone floors that invite bare feet as we step in, and a bedroom furnished in a way that fosters calm and discourages waste: black framed lounge chairs made of upcycled wood and plump square white cushions, a low sleek coffee table and a minimalist four-poster bed draped with white mosquito nets, cleverly weighted so they don’t let in any pesky visitors at night. A shelf that runs along the left side of the room is home to crockery and a cafetiere; simple and sufficient.

With our chalet kept cool by a ceiling fan rather than the clunky whir of air conditioning, we fall asleep and wake to the sounds of the forest, including some of Sri Lanka’s more than 30 endemic birds. A tetrad of neutral blinds are rolled up each morning so we can step out on the wide balcony and sip coffee in low safari chairs made of recycled teak, all while marvelling at the morning mist rising over the valley beyond.

Connecting with nature and self

Though we are here to unwind, our days begin, post-coffee, with a 7am hatha yoga class, where we stretch, pose and chant for 90 minutes in the stone-floored yoga pavilion, completely open to the elements on two sides.

Perpendicular to the yoga pavilion is the entrance to the spa, built over three levels into the hillside – it is simply too tempting not to stroll over post-Savasana. We descend to the level that houses a steam room, glass-walled sauna and a sublimely temperate, tiled thermal salt pool with views of paddy fields. It is the perfect spot to while away an hour with a book before breakfast, the daily four-kilometre morning walk to the nearby Hulu River, or a traditional Ayurvedic treatment in one of the therapy rooms a level below.

The spa’s comprehensive offerings promise to satisfy even the most demanding of wellness connoisseurs, with a long list of both Ayurvedic and western treatments available. Just like in the kitchen, the spa makes use of the land, with various medicinal herbs grown on site. But it is the infinity pool that we find ourselves returning to, time and again, each day. Swimming laps with the mosaic effect of forest-toned tiles beneath, the green hues of the living, breathing jungle all around and the constant chime of cicadas, reinforces what countless studies have indicated: that immersing yourself in nature really does heal. 

Since wifi is only available in our chalet, a digital detox is also gently enforced, though, for us, it is wholly welcomed. With Santani’s holistic design – which it calls “architecture of silence” – at play, it doesn’t take long before the mindless scrolling on our smartphones is no longer happening by the pool, as we stroll through the plantation grounds, or over any of the three-course breakfast, lunches and dinners during our stay.

Nourishing body and soul

Inside the heavenly light-filled restaurant, executive chef Indika Bandara leads a kitchen that crafts dishes based on the Ayurvedic philosophy of ‘Rasa Haya’, which posits that there are six tastes through which food is categorised and used to create a nutritionally balanced, healthy diet. We quickly discover it also leads to an outstanding dining experience.

One morning, perfectly ripened chunks of fruit including mango, banana, papaya, apple and pineapple arrive on a slender plate, before a bowl of delicious homemade granola then scrambled eggs, mushrooms and spinach. Some ingredients are grown in an on-site greenhouse where beekeepers also nurture fresh Santani honey, while other fruit and vegetables are sourced from the surrounding community.

Both European or Sri Lankan cuisine is offered for each meal, so we opt for the local breakfast, too, during our stay. Think fish and vegetable curries, dahl and gotu kola sambo (a traditional pennywort-and-coconut salad), folded into hoppers: a bowl-shaped Sri Lankan pancake that is quickly devoured. Meals can be tailored to guests’ personal requirements, with a resident Ayurvedic doctor on hand to identify your personal dosha body type, which is then used to create a custom dietary plan.

Sharing the dining space with one other couple – who were taking part in a juice cleanse while we indulged in a mouthwatering seven-course degustation dinner – leads to mixed feelings of both guilt and gratitude. But, we reason with ourselves as we take another bite – a stay at Santani is all about balance, after all.

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Hotel notes

Rates at Santani Wellness Kandy start from US$443 (about AU$715) per night for a Mountain View Chalet on a full-board basis for two adults, including breakfast, lunch and dinner. Santani’s wellness rates start at US$763 (about AU$1,235) per night for a Mountain View Chalet on a full-board basis for two adults, including an Ayurvedic doctor consultation and a daily 90-minute treatment.

abercrombiekent.com.au

santani.com