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GL

Nominee 2024

Australia

Warabi

Photography by

Jake Roden | Lucas Allen

Published

29 July 2024

Warabi

Warabi at W Melbourne takes the logic of omakase — trust in the chef, attention to season — and reframes it for a city that thrives on energy and edge. The room is low-lit and intimate; the counter is the stage. What follows is a tightly edited progression where texture, temperature, and rhythm matter as much as flavour.

The design favours mood over spectacle: dark timber, stone, and a line of seats that bring guests within breath of the blade. It’s a space built for focus. The soundtrack is the work itself — the gentle thud of a knife through fish, the brush of sauce, the brief sizzle of a final kiss of heat. Service is precise and present, steering conversation toward what’s in season and why it tastes the way it does tonight, not last week.

The menu reads like a set list: sashimi that plays with cut and fat; nigiri where the rice speaks as clearly as the topping; a warm interlude, perhaps chawanmushi or charcoal-touched seafood; then a closing movement of sweetness that leans clean rather than heavy. Sake is a co-author, with a list that roams prefectures and styles — ginjo to junmai daiginjo — chosen for lift, line, and finish. Cocktails nod to Japanese botanicals without losing Melbourne’s appetite for innovation.

What sets Warabi apart is restraint. Nothing is overwrought. Ingredients are allowed to be themselves at their peak, and technique exists to make that obvious. In a city famous for noise and choice, the quiet confidence feels luxurious.

Warabi delivers a concentrated expression of Japanese craft filtered through Melbourne sensibility — urbane, exacting, and memorable long after the last grain of rice.

Find out more at the official website, Instagram, Facebook.


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