Seoul: A city guide to South Korea’s capital of contrasts

From centuries-old palaces and hanok neighbourhoods to design-led hotels, late-night dining and quietly stylish districts, this city guide to Seoul explores where tradition and modern life sit side by side

Gyeongbokgung Palace

There are plenty of palaces and temples dotted throughout the heart of Seoul, but this one stands out. The so-called ‘Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven’ is a sprawling complex that was once at the heart of Korea. Filled with historic buildings, colourfully dressed soldiers and visitors, it was the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty, which reigned between 1392 and 1897. It’s the kind of place where a few hours slip by easily.

Dongdaemun Design Plaza

Highlighting Seoul’s design prowess is this sleek beauty designed by the late Dame Zaha Hadid. Sensuous curves dominate inside and out; the interior holds several galleries, trendy food outlets and pop-ups, plus one-off, design-led fashion boutiques where you can pick up something uniquely ‘Seoul’. Then, there’s that simply sublime stairwell. A showcase of Seoul’s creative energy, it’s as much a work of art as the exhibitions it houses.

N Seoul Tower

The funicular and cable car rides up to Seoul’s TV and radio tower are worth it for the views alone. Once there, there are walking trails through gardens, opportunities to star in a K-Pop inspired video and thousands of love padlocks to marvel at. In the evening, venturing to the top for French dining at n.Grill with the city sparkling below is nothing short of magical.

House of Sulwhasoo Spa

With Korea famous for its beauty industry, this spa offers modern treatments in an ancient setting. Housed in a traditional building in Seoul’s Bukchon Hanok Village, the flagship (there are outlets across the city) combines ancient healing rituals with contemporary approaches in a culturally rich location. The ‘Intense Ginseng Journey’ for face and back comes highly recommended.

West Village

In Seoul’s West Village (aka Seochon) district, the focus is on artisan boutiques rather than tourist souvenirs. Stylish ceramics – bowls, cups and delicate Korean accessories – sit alongside upmarket fashion, all in a village-like setting dotted with inviting cafes.

Starfield Library

Now a social media icon, the vast Starfield Library in COEX Mall is lined with books in many languages, international magazines and inviting nooks perfect for curling up with a good read. Its greatest charm lies in the way it draws children and adults alike, completely absorbed in their books, the bustle of the mall fading away.

Docking Seoul

At the railway station end of the Seoullo 7017 Skygarden stands what first appears to be a rough-around-the-edges parking garage. In fact, it’s an art gallery open to all. Winding up the spiral access ramp to the rooftop car park, visitors encounter urban artworks cleverly positioned along the way – a quirky space that quite literally offers a new perspective on both art and Seoul’s street vibe.

Soigné

Seoul has an impressive selection of Michelin-starred restaurants. And of those, Soigné is a highlight. Its two well-deserved stars reflect chef Lee Jun’s inspired ‘episodes’: carefully selected, ever-changing journeys into a culinary theme, with dishes – Korean ingredients shaped by global cuisines – each more beautiful than the last.

Zest

A heavyweight among bars that offer something special, Zest ranked ninth in the World’s 50 Best Bars 2024 and first in Korea. What sets it apart is the way it combines elegance and luxury with an inventive cocktail menu, while maintaining a strong commitment to sustainability – reflected in its décor, ingredients and drinks.

Gwangjang Market

While Myeongdong Night Market tempts with shopping, lights and snacks, Gwangjang keeps the focus squarely on food. Its tightly packed stalls serve everything from noodles, pancakes and dumplings to must-tries such as bibimbap, kkwabaegi (twisted doughnuts) and Korean hot-dogs – the very essence of Seoul street food.

Seoullo 7017 Skygarden

Get up early and walk Seoul’s answer to New York’s High Line, an abandoned flyover transformed into a green space in the sky. Along the way are specialised gardens, each a marvel in itself. Stop to smell the roses, admire the blossoms and take in some of the 24,000 plants from 228 indigenous species. At almost any time of year, something is in bloom here.

Four Seasons Seoul

With its rooms’ floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the sprawling Gyeongbokgung Palace complex, and a dramatic lobby set around an open fire with enormous coffee tables made from solid rock, this enclave envelops guests with gentle luxury and a hush that feels far from the city’s bustle. Add a world class spa, superb restaurants and even a hidden speakeasy, and leaving to explore the city will be a wrench.

Josun Palace, A Luxury Collection

Gangnam is the wealthy quarter of Seoul where it is all happening. Expect the densest accumulation of Michelin-starred restaurants, excellent shopping, the Starfield Library and an entire road dedicated to K-Pop. Among the sights lies the opulent Josun Palace. Filled with art and offering its own signature scent, it showcases an attention to detail found in only the best luxury hotels. A must-do is having a drink or two at the 1914 Lounge & Bar, with its incredible views across the entirety of the city.

The city centre is easily walkable, with many major sights close at hand. For destinations further afield, Seoul’s efficient metro system – with ticket machines in every station and a straightforward map – makes getting around simple.