Champagne, tigers & Dior spas: Inside the revamped Eastern & Oriental Express

With gilded carriages, Michelin-star-curated meals and new journeys into Malaysia’s tiger country on offer, the iconic Eastern & Oriental Express roars with new life

As our train tosses passing trackside trees into a frenzy, I deliberate whether to choose a fruit cup or dainty caramel tart from the tiered high-tea cake stand before me, before settling on a petite melting moment. I pop it into my mouth, but before I can finish it and take another sip of my French champagne, just topped up by a dapper waiter, the vista has changed. Now, I see vigilant rows of verdant palms and rubber plantations shading cows from the scorching afternoon sun, alongside simple concrete and corrugated-roof houses, remnants of the tin mining communities that originally serviced this railway line. My train is a far cry from those that once chugged along here, though.

I’m aboard Southeast Asia’s iconic Eastern & Oriental Express (E&O), a luxurious and utterly exclusive hotel on wheels, where every detail nods to the grand, romantic era of slow travel. In the plush red-velvet Malaya dining room, the crisp white-linen tablecloths, signature embossed fine-bone china, shiny silverware mirroring my reflection and even the wandering magician with his slick card tricks, all echo the opulence of its European sister, the Venice-Simplon Orient Express – it may have inspired Agatha Christie’s famous novel Murder on the Orient Express, but here in Southeast Asia, the only thing guests of this train are ‘murdering’ is champagne.

The inaugural E&O departed Singapore for Bangkok in 1993. During its Covid-enforced four-year hiatus, all soft furnishings were refurbished, before resuming service in February 2024 – but this time, not to Bangkok. Two new four-day, three-night return journeys now operate between Singapore and Malaysia: The ‘Essence of Malaysia’ and ‘Wild Malaysia’. As one of 56 passengers on the latter route (capacity is 64), I’m bubbling with excitement. Nodding to the train’s golden emblem and its partnership with global conservation charity Save Wild Tigers, we’re travelling to Taman Negara National Park, home of the critically endangered Malayan tiger, then on to Penang and back to Singapore.

Lavish living

E&O‘s carriages evoke the grandeur of a bygone era. There’s floor-to-ceiling polished marquetry elm; cherry, teak and rosewood panelling; a bottle-green marble ensuite with brass handles, hooks and taps; silk-embroidered upholstery and handmade Thai carpets. The new room colours reflect the train’s storied past and the regions it travels through: lavish golds in the full carriage Presidential Suite, rich jungle greens and oceanic blues in the State Cabins – a nod to the landscapes of Penang – and peacock blues and burgundy reds in the Pullman Cabins, referencing Malaysia’s bustling capital of Kuala Lumpur.

In my cabin I find plenty of special touches, too, including a soft cotton E&O insignia robe and slippers, lavender eye pack, stainless-steel monogrammed water bottle, a decorative hand fan, and a carry bag upcycled from the train’s former soft furnishing fabrics.

The finer things

On the E&O, cocktails and dinner are glamorous, diamond-studded affairs, so it’s wise to pack your finery. Each evening, women glide by in elegant flowing silk dresses and gold lurex tops, and men don tuxedos or velvet jackets, ready for the evening soirée ahead.

Three Michelin-starred Taiwanese chef André Chiang’s innovative meals are an irresistible gastronomic journey. Think flavoursome ‘nine peppers jus’ sixteen-hour-braised beef cheek, deliciously spicy laksa and indulgent desserts like a cacao ganache with ‘jungle spices’. All-inclusive meals feature seasonal, sustainably sourced ingredients that celebrate Malaysia’s kaleidoscope of cultures.

The party atmosphere lingers after dinner in the velvety Piano Bar, gleaming in shades of gold and embodying a jazz club ambience. Sultry songs accompanied by piano and saxophone fill the air, and a cornucopia of vintage champagnes, signature cocktails and digestifs flow freely until the wee hours.

Local flavour

Despite the word ‘express’ in its name, the E&O train is anything but. It stops often, primarily because of the single narrow track – which causes extreme sway (ideal for rocking you to sleep) – but also for our journey’s tailor-made off-board experiences.

At Merapoh station, energetic guests e-bike past kampungs (villages) to Shooting Stars and Dragon’s Scale caves. Meanwhile, sitting on padded planks across an open-back Jeep, I join the Malaysian tiger conservation group heading into the jungles of one of the world’s oldest rainforests, Taman Negara National Park. Charging along narrow tracks surrounded by towering trees, the wind whips through my hair, fresh forest aromas fill my nostrils, and the high-pitched siren of cicadas fills my ears. The conservationists tell us that fewer than 150 Malayan tigers remain in the wild, and even though camera-trap monitoring helps, poachers remain the animal’s primary predator.

At Kelah Sanctuary, schools of protected kelah fish (known to be an excellent indicator of ecological river health) swim through the waters of the Juram River. We indulge in delicious local cakes, fresh fruits, pandan water, coffee and ginger tea while the calls of hornbills and gibbons compete in the distance. 

Arriving in colourful George Town on Penang Island, my fellow passengers and I can choose to free-wheel around town in a tri-shaw, discover the cultural side of this historic town as a pillion passenger on a vintage Vespa scooter, or opt for the more modern transportation of a luxury air-conditioned van for a ‘Flavour of Penang’ tour. This self-confessed foodie doesn’t have to tell you which one I choose.

After sampling delicious local delicacies and spices at Penang’s Chowrasta Market, we head up Penang Hill to Eythrope Boutique Villa – a 100-year-old Art Deco residence that is now a Small Luxury Hotel of the World. On the spacious verandah, with 180-degree views of the city and Penang Strait, we learn the intricacies of local homestyle Chinese and Indian cooking before enjoying each delectable dish with chilled Australian sparkling wine. All too soon, we’re disembarking at Singapore’s Woodlands Station. As I admire the 16 elegant bottle-green-and-cream striped carriages festooned with the renowned gold tiger emblem – now reflecting softly in the polished concrete platform – I reflect on this memorable once-in-a-lifetime journey I’ve just experienced. As Nelson DeMille’s character Carlos says in The Cuban Affair: “Getting there is only half the fun.” I couldn’t agree more.

Wellness on the rails

In July 2024, the E&O Express added a Dior Spa carriage, the first Dior Spa in Southeast Asia. Guests can now enjoy five invigorating, tailored treatments by the French maison’s wellness experts, including Dior Prestige facials and genuinely immersive Asian-inspired massage experiences.

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JOURNEY NOTES

Eastern & Orient Express’s three-night, four-day ‘Wild Malaysia’ journey departs Singapore, return, from March through October. The three-night, four-day ‘Essence of Malaysia’ journey departs Singapore return from November through February. Rates start from US$4,150 per person, per room (about AU$6,680) including complimentary transfers, ensuite accommodation on board, entertainment, cocktails, fine wines, all meals and fully guided off-board excursions. belmond.com