Ireland’s castles, country estates and quiet legends

From ghost stories at a woodland castle to Georgian estates and Ireland’s great rock-hewn monuments, a slow journey through the country’s historic heartlands reveals its enduring sense of romance

The last thing I expect as I sit beside a roaring fire in the Dungeon Bar of grand Kinnitty Castle in the heart of Ireland, is ghost talk. But a chance meeting with a fellow traveller fills the gaps in my paranormal activity knowledge, and I quickly learn about the ghostly apparitions and strange noises said to inhabit the ancient fortress.

The tale of the Phantom Monk, who has supposedly long graced Kinnitty Castle’s halls, is intriguing. I am pleased to hear the Phantom Monk has a reputation as a friendly ghost, should he pass my way – but nonetheless relieved that our first night in the spacious Bernard suite, named after the family who purchased the castle in 1764, passes by blissfully ghost-free.

A castle at the edge of the Slieve Blooms

It feels a little surreal to stay in such an historic place, and from the moment we meander along the tree-lined driveway, we know we are in for something special. The castle is set amid vivid green woodland dotted with colourful wildflowers, while purple heather blankets the hillsides.

Kinnitty Castle Hotel sits at the foothills of the pretty Slieve Bloom Mountains, which are crisscrossed with fabulous walking trails. Step inside the castle and you really do walk the red carpet that spills down the ancient stone staircase. The walls, too, are a vivid red, and the authentic heavy armour worn by knights of old and warfare cannons on display add to the lobby’s dramatic decor.

Located 90 minutes’ drive from Dublin, Kinnitty Castle has a colourful background. The first castle was destroyed in 1209 and rebuilt and remodelled many times. It’s been owned by various families as a private premises but in 1994, it changed direction and was transformed into a hotel with 37 ensuite rooms. A great sense of history has been retained both inside and outside, and you can’t help but feel a sense of wonder that compels you to discover more about the castle and garden.

Our spacious suite overlooks magnificent parklands, where you can wander along walking trails, horse ride and play tennis. We dine in the Monks Cafe on a Sunday evening, and later taste test the Kinnitty Castle Whiskey, which has a significant following. There are several major golf courses in the area, too, and garden lovers are well catered for with beautiful private and public gardens that are listed in the Lough Derg Garden Trail – including Bellefield House, the home of the late architect and garden designer, Angela Jupe.

On the way to the castle, we stop at the Irish National Stud and Gardens in Kildare. Founded by Colonel William Hall Walker, the estate is home to retired racehorses, foals and some of the world’s leading stallions – it was once home to the champion Invincible Spirit. More than 250 foals are born at the stud annually and within an hour of birth are standing. Visitors can also book an Irish Racehorse Experience, which is an immersive attraction showcasing the life cycle of a thoroughbred.

The picturesque grounds are perfect for picnics, with playgrounds for children and stretches of manicured lawns, colourful flowers spilling from pots. The biggest surprise is the Japanese Garden, which was created by horticulturalist Tassa Eida between 1906 and 1910. It is a colourful feast for the senses with thoughtful placings of rocks, trees, water ponds and flowers.  

Estates, sacred rock and refined stays

Golf takes our fancy the next day at the 18-hole Jack Nicklaus signature-designed course at picturesque Mount Juliet Estate, which has centuries of Irish history on its doorstep. Located in the heart of Kilkenny, the Estate’s Manor House – which was the first Earl of Carrick and his wife, Juliet’s, home and dates back to 1747 – reflects elegant Georgian grandeur, and has been beautifully preserved with 32 individually designed bedrooms.

Our suite overlooks the meandering River Nore, where you can enjoy an angling lesson or sit and watch nature unfold in all her glory. The estate has an award-winning casual dining restaurant, The Hound, that was once a working farm, and the grounds are impressive with beautiful rose and herb walled gardens and manicured lawns. It’s well worth rising early for a walk.

We spend our last day exploring the famous Rock of Cashel and Cashel village. It’s a steep climb to see this ancient seat of the Kings of Munster and the 12th and 13th century Cathedral – but an activity not to be missed. 

The castle is set amid vivid green woodland dotted with colourful wildflowers, while purple heather blankets the hillsides

That evening we stay at the elegant Cashel Palace Hotel, a Relais & Chateaux property that was reopened in 2022 by the Magnier family, who own the world-renowned horse stud Coolmore, which is nearby. Inside it is a feast for the senses with beautifully decorated public areas, chic suites, manicured gardens, a world class spa and the convivial Guinness Bar. Bishop’s Buttery is its signature Michelin star restaurant. 

Dating back to 1732, Cashel Palace Hotel was the Palladian style house of Church of Ireland Archbishop Theophilus Bolton, designed by architect Sir Edward Lovett Pearce. He also designed Dublin’s impressive Parliament House – now the Bank of Ireland in College Green. The Rock of Cashel is quite literally at the hotel’s back door with private access via a beautiful garden, where two ancient mulberry trees, planted in 1702, commemorate Queen Anne’s coronation. 

At Coolmore, we enjoy the Stories and Stallions Day tour with equine concierge, Emma-Mai Roche. It’s another exclusive glimpse into the heart of horse racing, with a behind-the-scenes look at the meticulous care, advanced training, and breeding techniques that produce champions. 

For dinner that night it’s Cashel Palace Hotel’s Mikey Ryan’s Bar and Kitchen, which features produce from local farmers and artisan producers in its Taste of Tipperary menu. Legend has it that the original hops plant used to make Guinness came from the garden, and the back of the building was once home to a snuff factory. But it’s best known as Cashel village’s public house and grocer, and the locals can recall queuing to buy ham over the counter from Mikey.

Back in Dublin we check in to the freshly renovated Brooks Hotel, a short stroll from vibrant Grafton Street and St Stephen’s Green, and close to galleries, boutiques, cafes, bars and restaurants. The hotel’s new chic restaurant, 62 Drury Street Bar and Brasserie, offers an all-day dining menu showcasing local and seasonal produce. 

An Irish singer and lively band sets feet tapping as we sip… what else, but Guiness.

Where to stay

Kinnitty Castle Hotel, Offaly, Ireland kinnittycastlehotel.com

Mount Juliet Estate Kilkenny mountjuliet.ie

Cashel Palace Hotel and Coolmore Tours – Cashel Tipperary cashelpalacehotel.ie

Brooks Hotel 62 Drury St, Dublin brookshotel.ie

Where to visit

National Stud and Gardens Tully, Kildare irishnationalstud.ie

Fethard Horse Experience – Fethard, Tipperary fhcexperience.ie

Travel times

Dublin to Kinnitty Castle: 123km

Kinnitty Castle to Mount Juliet Estate: 50kms

Mount Juliet Estate to Cashel Palace Hotel: 35kms

Cashel Palace Hotel to Dublin: 160kms